Placing Bar End Mirrors (3/8” wide or less, 'CRG Arrow' in this case) on stock handlebars
What you will need:
Tools:
1. Drill, with 1/8” bit
2. Set of Torx wrenches (need at least T50 for bar end removal). As in apex bar write up, you will need a T8 with a long narrow neck on it, to reach the screw head in the throttle assembly (for throttle cover removal and access to the ‘throttle assembly holding screw’) –I used a dremel and burred down my T8 to make it narrower for an additional 1/4” or so, worked fine.
See below:
3. Sharpie or other marker
Take a trip to Hardware Store/Lowes/Home Depot/etc and purchase:
1. Any of the above tools you’re missing, like a T8 with long neck
2. Washer ¾” OD x ½” ID (just in case on throttle side, you’ll see why)
3. Rubber Gasket ¾” OD x 7/16” ID (to take up space on clutch side between bar end and clip on)
See below:
Disclaimer: If you have aftermarket levers, and the clip on is narrower than stock, you may not need rubber gasket, but grab a few just in case. Also, these are stock handle grips that I slipped grippups onto, just in case you’re wondering.
CLUTCH SIDE
Step 1:
Loosen and remove bar ends with T50/T55
Step 2:
At interface between clutch assembly and rubber grip, pull back grip to reveal ‘clutch assembly holding screw’ and remove. You should be able to slide clutch assembly/grip up and down handlebar.
Step 3:
Loosen clutch lever and slide up the handlebar as far as possible, and re-tighten in new position, making sure to have it in the same or similar position as before you started (if you don’t remember, just play with it a bit and get it to a comfortable/functional spot).
Step 4:
Slide clutch assembly/grip up handlebar as far as possible to meet the clutch lever you just tightened. You should have a 1/8-1/4”in of bar end now available at the end of the bar. (I had 1/8”).
Step 5:
While holding your grip in the new position (double check that you moved the assembly straight up the bar, and didn’t rotate it), make a mark with your sharpie through the hole that the ‘clutch assembly holding screw’ went through. Make sure it marks the handlebar
Step 6:
Loosen clutch lever and remove off handlebar, let it dangle
Step 7:
Loosen handlebar clip on (screw located under triple clamp), and slide the handle bar down about 2”in and rotate forward until you hit the fairing (protect fairing with something)
Step 8:
Now slide down the clutch/grip assembly ~4” or so until the mark you made with your sharpie is visible and the original holding screw hole is visible
Step 9:
Put an extra drill bit or something similar into the original screw hole to orient you to the proper angle at which to drill
Step 10:
Drill out the aluminum with your 1/8” drill at the same angle as the original holding screw, in the center of the bar, exiting the opposite side, in the center of the bar (reference the original hole frequently or use a drill bit like in step 9)
WARNING: DO NOT BEND YOUR DRILL ONCE IN THE HOLE!! GO STRAIGHT, MOVING IN AND OUT FREQUENTLY. IF YOU SNAP A DRILL BIT IN THE HOLE, IT CAN BE DIFFICULT TO REMOVE!! (Just FYI, I did this, so I broke off a fly swatter, used the twisted wire end, up the clip on to move it back out the hole, not cool, because I did not want to remove triple clamp to get clip on off, to knock it out). Another reason to not bend your drill is that you do not want your hole much bigger than 1/8”, or it won’t thread.
Step 11:
Now your hole is drilled and everything’s loose. Since you have good visibility here, thread the stock screw through the aluminum. If too tight, use your drill. If too loose (unlikely), you’ll need to go to hardware store and get a bigger screw. This may take some pressure to get it to thread. Threading the opposite, furthest part, of the aluminum is more important, for tight fit, than the aluminum closest to the screw head (acts like a lag screw).
Step 12:
Clip everything back on, screw in clutch/grip assembly to new position
Step 13:
Now place mirror to your newly created bare bar end (won’t be much on clutch side, but is definitely enough to get it to stay tight)
Step 14:
Place your rubber gasket over the bolt/bar end assembly to act as a spacer (so that as you tighten down the bar end, something is there to act as a stop. You don’t want to just keep tightening or you’ll push the mirror too hard into the grip. Also, you don’t necessarily have to use a rubber gasket here, but it worked great and I’ve had zero issues with it (at least 200mi at this point)
THROTTLE SIDE
The steps are basically the same as clutch side, but differ on how to get assembly off. Also, there is enough excess bar here to avoid having to use any kind of spacer
Step 1:
Remove bar end as before
Step 2:
Loosen up handlebar clip on and slide down to allow it to rotate forward for access. Loosen up hand brake as well.
Step 3:
The holding screw is on the INSIDE of the throttle assembly, so to take it off, there are 2 screws (T8) on the underside. You will need a long neck T8 here, I just burred down one as in the pic above. Once screws removed and plastic off, you will see the holding screw on the undersurface of the throttle assembly, unscrew it
Step 4:
Throttle assembly/grip should be able to move freely. Now reattach brake lever loosely, slide handlebar clip on up to original position on shock, and attach bar end (3/8” wide) mirror to bar end, add bar end/bolt just to make sure it’s nice and snug. When you pick your new position for your throttle, you cannot have it right up next to the grip, or else when you tighten things, you can’t turn your throttle. So give about 1/8” excess between bar end mirror and throttle. If you are too close after you drill your new hole, I used one single washer to give me some space and allow throttle rotation. But, I gave myself less than an 1/8”, so 1/8” should be fine.
Step 5:
When happy with new positions, tighten up things, make sure everything’s functional, mark new position with sharpie
Step 6:
Loosen everything back up, slide down assembly to visualize mark. Since your mark is on the undersurface, use something to mark the opposing side (side up) where you want to drill (string, tape, eyeballing it, the plastic on the end of the throttle assembly, etc).
Step 7:
Drill hole with 1/8” drill as before
Step 8:
Thread screw as before to make sure it’s snug, take it out, slide up throttle assembly to correct position and screw it in again
Step 9:
Reattach everything, you should have enough bar end for your bar end mirror and have enough room for free throttle movement. If not, add the washer, it still tightens up tight.
2011 BMW 
2011 BMW S1000RR
Placing bar end mirrors on stock clip-ons
BMW S1000RR Superbike
. I know there's some special mirror adapters out there, but most of them use that expanding insert and I figure it's worth a shot to keep the stock bar end and bolt if possible....
Linear Mode
