Complete PAIR System Removal

[RidersDiscount]

Here, we’ll cover the basics on how to remove the PAIR system from your BMW S1000RR. We used a Driven Racing Smog block off plate kit on our bike. The biggest benefit to this system is that it creates an accurate air/fuel gas mixture readout for your dyno guy to measure since no more air is artificially injected into the exhaust valves to catalyze the ignition of unburned hydrocarbons. The more accurate the air/fuel readout, the easier it is to realize the true power output potential of the big BMW.

To do this, you’ll need to remove the seat, fuel tank and airbox. You’ll need to pull the ECU off the bike as well so you can completely get the airbox out of the way. Remember, you first need to pull the air filter cartridge out in order to get the entire airbox off the bike. What’s particularly nice about the S1000RR’s airbox is that it’s attached to the bike with only four bolts, two of which are used to attach it to the throttle bodies. There’s also a crankcase breather hose that needs to be disconnected so be weary of this.

The instant you get the airbox off PLUG ALL HOLES TO THE ENGINE WITH CLEAN RAGS! (including the crankcase breather vent!). There’s no sense in accidentally turning a quick do-it-yourself project into an expensive engine rebuild.


With the airbox is gone, you’ll need to pull the air injector rail off the front of the valve cover – it’s only two bolts but it’s a bit of a pain getting in there so take your time. To give you an idea of the position of the PAIR rail as it sits on the valve cover, here’s an approximate arrangement of the device as it’s attached to the airbox.


The smog block off kit that comes from Driven Racing includes a plug for the AIS pump on the airbox.


With the PAIR rail free, you’ll need to remove the O-rings that seal it against the valve cover. Here, you can see the PAIR injector port flanked at either side by the Driven plates, one with an O-ring, the other without. Don’t worry, we cleaned up the O-rings before we put everything back on the bike!


We applied thread locking compound to the hardware that fastens the Driven block off plates in place. Since it’s highly unlikely that we’ll need to remove these anytime soon, we didn’t bother replacing the Torx hardware with hex hardware.


The right side cover is a little tricky to get into place since it’s almost directly under the throttle cables.


The plug for the airbox that comes from Driven is longer than it needs to be. We cut it down so that it just covers the plug with no extra slack and zip tied it into place.


Re-assemble everything in reverse and you’re done. Assuming you have a Power Commander or any other fuel tuning module, now would be a good time to head to the dyno and get a custom fuel map!

[Thruxton1]

Originally Posted by RidersDiscount

Here, we’ll cover the basics on how to remove the PAIR system from your BMW S1000RR. We used a Driven Racing Smog block off plate kit on our bike. The biggest benefit to this system is that it creates an accurate air/fuel gas mixture readout for your dyno guy to measure since no more air is artificially injected into the exhaust valves to catalyze the ignition of unburned hydrocarbons. The more accurate the air/fuel readout, the easier it is to realize the true power output potential of the big BMW.

To do this, you’ll need to remove the seat, fuel tank and airbox. You’ll need to pull the ECU off the bike as well so you can completely get the airbox out of the way. Remember, you first need to pull the air filter cartridge out in order to get the entire airbox off the bike. What’s particularly nice about the S1000RR’s airbox is that it’s attached to the bike with only four bolts, two of which are used to attach it to the throttle bodies. There’s also a crankcase breather hose that needs to be disconnected so be weary of this.

The instant you get the airbox off PLUG ALL HOLES TO THE ENGINE WITH CLEAN RAGS! (including the crankcase breather vent!). There’s no sense in accidentally turning a quick do-it-yourself project into an expensive engine rebuild.


With the airbox is gone, you’ll need to pull the air injector rail off the front of the valve cover – it’s only two bolts but it’s a bit of a pain getting in there so take your time. To give you an idea of the position of the PAIR rail as it sits on the valve cover, here’s an approximate arrangement of the device as it’s attached to the airbox.


The smog block off kit that comes from Driven Racing includes a plug for the AIS pump on the airbox.


With the PAIR rail free, you’ll need to remove the O-rings that seal it against the valve cover. Here, you can see the PAIR injector port flanked at either side by the Driven plates, one with an O-ring, the other without. Don’t worry, we cleaned up the O-rings before we put everything back on the bike!


We applied thread locking compound to the hardware that fastens the Driven block off plates in place. Since it’s highly unlikely that we’ll need to remove these anytime soon, we didn’t bother replacing the Torx hardware with hex hardware.


The right side cover is a little tricky to get into place since it’s almost directly under the throttle cables.


The plug for the airbox that comes from Driven is longer than it needs to be. We cut it down so that it just covers the plug with no extra slack and zip tied it into place.


Re-assemble everything in reverse and you’re done. Assuming you have a Power Commander or any other fuel tuning module, now would be a good time to head to the dyno and get a custom fuel map!

Thanks, much appreciated. Do we need to put the back box with solenoid back in? Couldn't the hose be plugged as it comes into the box? Thanks-T1

[RidersDiscount]

Originally Posted by Thruxton1

Thanks, much appreciated. Do we need to put the back box with solenoid back in? Couldn't the hose be plugged as it comes into the box? Thanks-T1

That would be nice, but the solenoid is plugged into the wire harness, so it may induce an error code. Our bike's ECU has been re-flashed by BMW Motorrad which eliminates the solenoid's function. Removing it will not cause an error code in our particular case, but we don't know how that would work on a serial ECU.

[Routybouty]

Has anyone with a normal ECU tried unplugging the PAIR solenoid? Any dash lights?

[BSR-1]

Is there any reason I can't remove the pump from the airbox?
I know Yamaha pumps weigh about a pound.

[RC51Player]

Originally Posted by BSR-1

Is there any reason I can't remove the pump from the airbox?
I know Yamaha pumps weigh about a pound.

This little pump is tiny. And trying to plug that hole would be difficult at best.

Curious as to why there is no mention of the Air/Fuel vent filter that sits on the PAIR system that you have to try and remove (to get to the PAIR sys) also. It is not mentioned in the BMW repair manual either. Is this just something on the newer bikes? It turns an easy project into a little more time consuming project when your not expecting it. Of course I just removed mine as it seems to only prevent any fuel that might come out of a tank vent hose from ever reaching the ground.

[BSR-1]

Originally Posted by RC51Player

This little pump is tiny. And trying to plug that hole would be difficult at best.

Curious as to why there is no mention of the Air/Fuel vent filter that sits on the PAIR system that you have to try and remove (to get to the PAIR sys) also. It is not mentioned in the BMW repair manual either. Is this just something on the newer bikes? It turns an easy project into a little more time consuming project when your not expecting it. Of course I just removed mine as it seems to only prevent any fuel that might come out of a tank vent hose from ever reaching the ground.

Good info, thanks for the heads up!

[BSR-1]

After your input on the pump weight and reviewing the pics, it seems that unless the rectangular rail weighs anything at all there'd be little point to removing it all. Just plugging the hose would certainly be a lot simpler.

I think I'd just crimp the hose with a piece of stiff wire for now until I get ambitious enough to remove the whole works.

[RC51Player]

Originally Posted by BSR-1

After your input on the pump weight and reviewing the pics, it seems that unless the rectangular rail weighs anything at all there'd be little point to removing it all. Just plugging the hose would certainly be a lot simpler.

I think I'd just crimp the hose with a piece of stiff wire for now until I get ambitious enough to remove the whole works.

It would be easier. And the rail is pretty light weight, all you would have to do is remove the hose off the pump and plug the hose and the pump. But I'm not sure if the end result would be the same. I (and I don't know) would think that after a few seconds of the engine running you would end up with the same results. But I can also see where having the rail and hose still connected one might have issues with to much exhaust gas floating around in you system. And I would think that the total removal of the PAIR (I think the BMW manual refers to it as SLS or something) system would be better. Anyone know?

[Routybouty]

Unfortunately, I am ambitious enough and have removed all that crap. I was planning on making a block-off plate for the valve if I can remove it w/o a dash light. Maybe I'll just find out once I start reassembling her.

It weighs .23lbs if I remember correctly for just the valve itself.