Here's a report on the HID conversion on my S1000RR.
The S1000RR is fast and I find it a bit faster than it's lighting at night so I decided to go for a HID conversion (4300 Kelvin in order to have the same light color than the halogens).
I ordered the 1 Off Motorsport low beam conversion kit from Jose of 1offmotorsports who's service is excellent and shipping abroad very fast.
As you may remember, I installed HID conversions on my K1300R and my GF F800R. This kit now has the CANBUS adapter integrated, not a separate module as previously. That is a great advantage as the space on the S1000RR is limited.
Installation
This installation is essentially easy and takes about 1 hour (for both lights) assuming you know where you are going to install the modules (that took a little extra time for me).
Tools needed : - Drill with a 22 mm (7/8 inch) bit - or smaller and a file
- Torx screw drivers
- Pliers (preferably that allow to cut)
- Electrical crimping pliers and 2 flat connectors (red 1.5 mm wire diameter)
- Voltmeter
- Duct tape or plastic ties (preferably black)
- Alcohol and clean cloth in case you touch the bulb
Upgrade process :- remove low and high beam bulb covers (twist) and make sure you don't loose the joints that come off really easily.
- remove bulb connectors and bulbs
- place HID bulbs, connect original plug and replace cap
- connect ballasts
- store ballasts - Make sure nothing can get in the way of the fork and other moving parts when steering.
Whole system layout
Note the triangular mounting plate that is used (once fixed) to secure the ballast
Instructions :
Drill the cap in the centre to a diameter to fit the grommet. I found it perfect to use the yellow bit by hand only. Then file the edges (not yet done on pic).
!
Do not drill to try and pass the ballast connector otherwise the hole will be too large for a tight waterproof seal. Instead, cut off the 2 flat connectors at the end of the black & red wires!
pass the grommet assembly through the cap (from the inside) and re thread the black & red whires through the grommet once in place (from the outside) and re crimp 2 new connectors at the end.
Remove the bulb clear plastic protection (unscrew the top), then cut/crack the bottom part with pliers to remove
Install the HID bulb in place of the removed halogen by inserting the little square tenon at the top and then pushing in the bottom part.
!Note 1: Do not touch the bulb with fingers or anything greasy (i'll be enough to leave microscopic grease depot on the bulb that, when hot, will crack it).
Note 2: Unlike cars or K's the bulb is not held in place by a spring wire but by metallic crimps on the edges of the bulb socket (at 4 and 8 o'clock - tenon at the top at 12h). As the HID bulb base is thicker than the "halo", you'll need to bend those crimps towards the center of the socket failing what the HID bulb won't stay in place and tend to "pop out".
Measure the polarity of the original bulb connector (unfortunately I can't remember the wire color coding as one is yellow and the other yellow/white) by plugging the voltmeter in the original bulb plug and turning the key. The test process on ignition shall power the light for a second so the polarity will register on the voltmeter (+12V = you got the + and gnd right / -12V means reversed).
Connect the black wire to ground wire of the original connector and the red one to the live one (you might need to use pliers to tighten the original bulb connectors if the connection is not tight enough).
Place the connector sideways in the cap and replace the cap (gently pull the wires through the grommet).
Pass the wires behind the black wire by removing the black connector (keep them out of the way of the fork).
Placing the ballasts:
The trick is to make sure that no cables interfere with the steering damper.
Fix the triangular plates on the ballasts
left Side (low beam / lozenge)
remove the fixation screws of the outer fairing (including the screw at the front end from the inside - "inner screw").
Slide the Ballast in the space at the front between the outer fairing and the inner fairing and fix it using the furthermost hole in the triangular plate and the "inner screw". Place the HT module between the fairings.
Tape the cables to the inside of the fairing using duct tape (that is not very sexy but it's the best way I found without having to drill holes). Any suggestion is welcome!
Right Side (high beam / round)
Same process as above, however the ballast location is different as there is a reservoir between the fairings.
Fix the ballast (using the inner hole of the triangular plate) to the screw on the frame (just below the "GPS" connector on the bottom of the RAM air conduit - next to the serial number) and pack the high voltage module next to it.
Tape the wires to the inner fairing using duct tape
As the light temperature is the same the before/after is no so impressive but having tested it last night, the difference is like night and day.
I would like to thank Jose from 1offmotorsports.
I hope you will be able to use these instructions and do the conversion yourselves.
Cheers
Marc
S1000RR HID conversion with 1offmotorsport kit
Linear Mode
