Installation of Oxford Heated grips, throttlemeister, power outlet, trickle charger

[dantera333]

This is the step-by-step installation of Oxford Heated grips, throttlemeister, power outlet plug, and trickle charger on my Acid Green 2010 BMW S1000RR.

Parts used:
1) Oxford SPORT Heated Grips Heaterz OF696Z FREE Powerpoxy, $79.95, cyclebitz (ebay). super fast shipping, the grips were sold through LockIt, they even included two tootsie-rolls and a thank you note in the package. A nice touch!
2) Throttlemeister (standard, black), $140, HardRacing Motorcycle Parts Motorcycle Performance Parts motorcycle Accessories for High Performance Super fast shipping, and really a great product.
3) 12 VDC 5-PIN RELAY SOCKET, $1.65, Parts express (Amazon)
4) Marine Grade Cigarette Lighter Socket 12 VDC, $6.78, Parts express (Amazon)
5) 12 VDC Tyco Relay SPDT 20/30A (Formerly Bosch), $3.19, Parts express (Amazon)
6) 110 ˚C 18Gauge wire, ~$8, Menards
7) Trickle charger, $17, Menards
8) 8 port electrical connection block, ~$3, radioshack
9) Fuse holder, ~$3, radioshack


Let's get started with all the fun:

Initially I tried removing the left stock grip in one piece, but after struggling for a while I just decided to cut it off. The plastic sleeve underneath is actually screwed into the handlebar.


------------------------
I trimmed off the plastic tube with a razor blade nearly flush with the left grip button housing. Note that the bolt that was holding the tube to the bars also held the housing in place and kept it from rotating. I used high temp epoxy to install the grip on the handlebar. I also put a little epoxy on the end of the housing to prevent it from moving around. It worked great.


------------------------
The right one went much quicker and easier because I didn’t bother trying to remove the grips in one piece. I used 60-grit sandpaper on the right throttle sleeve to make room for the right grip to fit on.


------------------------
Although Oxford included a small tube of superglue with the heated grips, I used the high-temp epoxy instead. It gave me working time to get both grips on and to align both sides before setting, which the superglue would not be able to do.

This is a close-up of the right grip and the throttlemeister cruise control already installed. The throttlemeister installation was a breeze. It took a couple of tries of different washer/spacer combinations to get the perfect throttlemeister adjustment, but it was very quick and easy, so there’s no need for pictures/more detailed installation instructions.


------------------------

[dantera333]

Another view.


------------------------
Left grip close-up.


------------------------
Another view.


------------------------

I bent and painted the bracket that came with the heated grip kit and used painters tape to mask part of the flat surface to which the controller will attach to (silver unpainted spot in middle). I used the headlight screw for installation with the goal of maximum concealment and easy access. Note that I drilled a large hole in the lower right corner of the plate to allow for access to the screw that holds it in place. The bracket feels solid and does not interfere with any controls.


------------------------
Another view.


------------------------

[dantera333]

The controller is attached to the mounting bracket using the included double-sided tape. The painted bracket blends right in, and the cables are neatly tucked away and do not interfere with anything.


------------------------
Another view from the rider’s side.


------------------------
Another view with the power and grips turned on.


------------------------
And now onto the electrical connections. I wired the power distribution block through a relay that is triggered by the rear license plate light.

I connected the relay as follows:
1) Pin 86 – Green wire tapped off the rear license plate light
2) Pin 85 – Negative battery terminal
3) Pin 30 – Positive battery terminal
4) Pin 87 – Fuse holder --> (+) terminal of power distribution block
5) Pin 87a – not connected


I spliced the green wire next to the plug that can be seen in the picture below. I used a standard 8 port block (Radio Shack) to make a power distribution block. I wired up a 20AMP fuse right next to it instead of putting it under the seat for easy access.


------------------------
This close-up view shows the heated grip and power socket connections already made. As you can see I have two more openings for any future expansion.


------------------------

[dantera333]

Once the connections were made I wrapped them in electrical tape for electrical insulation.


------------------------
The power distribution block and fuse fit neatly between the OEM fuse box and rear cowl fairing.


------------------------
Using a relay harness makes the installation and maintenance easy in case the relay ever fails in the future.


------------------------
I wrapped the relay in shock absorbent foam (leftover from my R/C airplanes) to help prevent vibration damage. It fits perfectly in the small slot in front of the battery. Notice that the 2nd set of cables connected to the battery are for a trickle charger hard wire installation.


------------------------
View of the trickle charger plug hidden under the seat.


------------------------

[dantera333]

View of everything under the seat in place, including the heated grip 2nd controller. I stuck the included double sided foam tape to the bottom of the controller for vibration protection, but did not stick it to the battery.


------------------------
I used a marine grade power socket that’s weatherproof and features a locking mechanism to help keep the power plug from working loose. I used a 1” bit to drill a hole in the left fairing for the socket. 1” was a little smaller size than needed, but that’s the largest bit I had. It took a bit of work with 60-grit sandpaper to enlarge the hole. This view is from the inside of the fairing with the plug already installed.


------------------------
This is a view from the outside.


------------------------
View of the power socket after installation.


------------------------

Summary:
The heated grips work amazing, they’re definitely a must for any cool weather riding. Yes, a must, even on a supersport bike. ...Waiting for comments from those who firmly believe they do not belong on a sport bike because they’ve never tried them… OK. The controller is easy to use and the grips warm up very quickly. There are different colored LEDs to indicate which of the four power settings are selected and one additional LED to indicate whether the power is turned on or off. I felt that the OEM grips did not have much friction and the throttle tended to slip back towards idle in my glove when riding at steady throttle over time. I constantly found myself readjusting my grip on the throttle or trying to hold it down harder. The new grips have much better grip and I do not have that issue at all. Two birds killed with one stone, sweet!!!

The throttlemesiter rocks. It uses a cylinder in the right bar end that gets pushed out when turned, causing friction against the throttle tube and keeping the throttle spring from returning the throttle to the idle position when released. I never noticed excessive vibrations on the bike until I really paid attention to it after reading some posts, but even then it was minimal. The minimal vibration improved after installing the short version of the throttlemeister. The cruise control works great too. It better, after all that’s the only reason I bought the thing. I haven’t taken any long trips with it yet, but do use it on longer straightaways and like it very much. Two more birds killed with one more stone, even better!!!

The power plug will be great for future GPS installation and phone charger. I haven’t used it yet, but it feels solid and looks stock.

The trickle charger is a slow charger and is intended to keep the battery alive through the winter months (damn Chicago weather…). I have one on my CBR and it’s a great low cost solution.

[Slim]

Originally Posted by dantera333

View of everything under the seat in place, including the heated grip 2nd controller. I stuck the included double sided foam tape to the bottom of the controller for vibration protection, but did not stick it to the battery.

Attachment 3495
------------------------
I used a marine grade power socket that’s weatherproof and features a locking mechanism to help keep the power plug from working loose. I used a 1” bit to drill a hole in the left fairing for the socket. 1” was a little smaller size than needed, but that’s the largest bit I had. It took a bit of work with 60-grit sandpaper to enlarge the hole. This view is from the inside of the fairing with the plug already installed.

Attachment 3496
------------------------
This is a view from the outside.

Attachment 3497
------------------------
View of the power socket after installation.

Attachment 3498
------------------------

Summary:
The heated grips work amazing, they’re definitely a must for any cool weather riding. Yes, a must, even on a supersport bike. ...Waiting for comments from those who firmly believe they do not belong on a sport bike because they’ve never tried them… OK. The controller is easy to use and the grips warm up very quickly. There are different colored LEDs to indicate which of the four power settings are selected and one additional LED to indicate whether the power is turned on or off. I felt that the OEM grips did not have much friction and the throttle tended to slip back towards idle in my glove when riding at steady throttle over time. I constantly found myself readjusting my grip on the throttle or trying to hold it down harder. The new grips have much better grip and I do not have that issue at all. Two birds killed with one stone, sweet!!!

The throttlemesiter rocks. It uses a cylinder in the right bar end that gets pushed out when turned, causing friction against the throttle tube and keeping the throttle spring from returning the throttle to the idle position when released. I never noticed excessive vibrations on the bike until I really paid attention to it after reading some posts, but even then it was minimal. The minimal vibration improved after installing the short version of the throttlemeister. The cruise control works great too. It better, after all that’s the only reason I bought the thing. I haven’t taken any long trips with it yet, but do use it on longer straightaways and like it very much. Two more birds killed with one more stone, even better!!!

The power plug will be great for future GPS installation and phone charger. I haven’t used it yet, but it feels solid and looks stock.

The trickle charger is a slow charger and is intended to keep the battery alive through the winter months (damn Chicago weather…). I have one on my CBR and it’s a great low cost solution.

i am totally saving this onto my hard drive for later use. lol

[CaperKen]

This description is extremely well-done and greatly appreciated. Thank you.

[wildbore]

I have just bought the Oxford Sport grips to do this install and noticed that the new grips have different internal diameters (the left bar grip is a small diameter as found on most bikes) - whereas I beleive that the S1000 bars are both large diameter. Can I ask how you overcame this problem?

Thanks

[dantera333]

Originally Posted by wildbore

I have just bought the Oxford Sport grips to do this install and noticed that the new grips have different internal diameters (the left bar grip is a small diameter as found on most bikes) - whereas I beleive that the S1000 bars are both large diameter. Can I ask how you overcame this problem?

Thanks

the bars on the right and left side are both the same size, and they both have a plastic sleeve. The right sleeve turns with the throttle, but the left plastic sleeve needs to be cut off. you'll then be able to fit the smaller heated grip on the left bar, and the larger diameter grip over the throttle tube on the right bar. I had to sand down the throttle tube a bit to make it fit without forcing it.

hope this helps.
-dan

[wildbore]

Thanks for the info, Dan. That's my weekend project sorted!