How to Plug/Block the PAIR Valve - Page 4 - BMW S1000RR Forums: BMW Sportbike Forum
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Old 04-14-2011, 05:51 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Britracer View Post
Are the Driven block-off plates what we are talking about?...I know they're not super cheap but I'm sure they are nice
My write up was the "cheap route"... just use rubber plugs... the block off plates some folks are talking about and make it cleaner... same end result.
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Old 06-05-2011, 04:25 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Already raping your new bike lol you guys are crazy There fast enough out of the box!
I have to agree. My old sportbike made 147 bhp on the dyno and by god, that was pretty scary, especially since it just kept building power right to the top. One of the cool things about the S1000 is, if you can't be bothered to "tune it" or tweak it, you certainly don't have to!! WTF?!!?? The thing is a beast.

Still, I am in this part of the forum, checking out the posts, aren't I??

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Old 07-05-2011, 11:30 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Thanks for this 1000RR. I did this today and took no more than 10min to do. For reference I used a size 1 plug for the pair valve and a size 000 for the hose. But the hose plug didn't snug in so well and it was the smallest size they had. So I zip-tied the plug on to secure it a little better. A simple solution for now, but I don't see me ever removing the AT, so I may order the block plates and just be done with it. The bike still pops a little on hard decel. I'm guessing the AT is still trimming, but when I go to try to accept the trims, there are none. ???
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Old 07-08-2011, 02:38 PM   #34 (permalink)
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I would do a test on your O2 sensor, maybe poisoned as the AT should be picking up trimms on or just above idle after a few seconds...

And recheck the AT is enabled in the program....

Last edited by 3blueS1000rr; 07-08-2011 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 07-11-2011, 12:22 PM   #35 (permalink)
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No don't think it is. I know it has to do with accepting these trims, but every time I go to accept them their gone. It pops at the beginning of my ride, but once the trims are added by the AT, the popping is gone. I can't remember where I read it, but does the power need to be left on until the trims are accepted? Like if I turn the bike off come back to accept will they be erased? If so, I guess I need to use two keys when I do this.
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Old 01-15-2012, 08:26 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Did you ever try this mod, to try to open and close the pair valve at will. I like the pops and flames it produces.
I have the open EVO system, PCV with Autotune. I have blocked off the pair valve with rubber plugs(Thanks 1000RR for the tips)

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Originally Posted by kismetcapitan View Post
I've been thinking - when I get to tinkering with the exhaust and install my PCV, I think running extra hose to a remote mechanical stopcock valve will allow one to open or close the PAIR valve at will. Ideally, such a valve would be placed someplace accessible, without having to remove body panels.

I like the PAIR system, and the flames and pops it produces when you run an open pipe and Power Commander - more extra fuel to light off. But for tuning, being able to quickly shut it off to get accurate AFR readings for my Autotune, would be very handy.
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Old 02-09-2012, 03:41 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Good DIY , and definitely a must when it comes time to tuning.
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Old 02-27-2012, 01:10 AM   #38 (permalink)
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I did this mod today. Thanks for the write-up. I will check my Autotune to see if it is recommending to go leaner now.
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:17 PM   #39 (permalink)
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What is the performance gain by doing this ?
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Old 02-28-2012, 05:53 PM   #40 (permalink)
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What is the performance gain by doing this ?
There is no direct performance gain from doing this alone. This mod is done so that the AFRs taken during a Dyno Tune at a shop or the AFRs being read from an AutoTuner are correct. Without doing this, the AFRs being read will in essence be artificially lean/high since extra air is getting introduced.
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