"Wireless" HID Conversion How-to (low/high beam)

[ereinders]

There are a lot of posts related to HID installation. Before installing a kit on my 2011, I researched many of them. The posts proved to be extremely helpful, but all had two common challenges - the exposed wires, and the difficulty finding good locations for the ballasts.

I ordered a high/low beam (6000K) kit from 1offmotorsports and set off to find a cleaner installation solution. The people at 1offmotorsports are both knowledgeable and helpful with any questions you may have and I highly recommend them.

I learned a few things along the way and thought I would share. The low-beam side is easier so I started there. This post will cover the low-beam side, and a second, the high-beam.

Items needed for installation (as well as standard hand-tools):

- 18-24 AWG red crimp-on connectors.
- Good quality wire crimper.
- Soldering iron, solder, heat shrink.
- Black RTV silicone.
- 1 1/2" x 1/2" rubber sleeve grommets (more on this later.)
- 16 AWG primary wire.
- 3/8" corrugated split loom.
- Good quality black electrical tape.
- Drill and 1/2" drill bit.
- 3/4" adhesive backed wire tie mounts.
- Assorted wire ties.

1. You will have to remove the upper and lower side fairings.
2. These are the grommet sleeves that I used --- approximately 1 1/2" long and 1/2" diameter in the groove --- purchased at Pipe Caps, Plastic Caps, Grommets, Tube Inserts, and More | Alliance Express but I'm sure others are available and will work.

3. Cut and remove the factory connections from the igniter lead leaving enough wire exposed to solder on extension wires. Solder on about 12" of extra wire and install heat shrink - you can trim the extra later. Install everything inside 5" of split loom and over the grommet. Wrap everything in tape. The ready-to-install assembly will look like this.

4. Install the ballast and wiring as shown. The ballast will mount on the outboard side of the exhaust valve servo. You can trim the small cable tab with wire cutters to make it sit more flush if necessary. You will need to remove and re-locate the turn signal wire plug.

5. Drill a 1/2" hole in the flat portion of the bottom side of the headlight housing. The housing is angled outward and down, so it is easy to access and drill. Inject some RTV into the top of the grommet and coat the wires well --- this will help prevent moisture intrusion. Also, put a small amount of RTV around the grommet's groove to help seal. Insert the wires and mount the grommet. Make sure that you use one of the adhesive wire tie pads in the inner fairing (previous picture) to prevent the wires from "hanging" from the grommet.

6. Pull the wires though the threaded cap opening and make the terminations. Install the new bulb --- note, I had hear of many people struggling with the halogen removal, but the 2011 model had very simple spring-type retainers. Arrange the wires inside of the housing and reinstall the cap. Here is the finished low-beam side.

[ereinders]

This is part two of the "wireless" HID conversion --- installation of the high-beam conversion.

1. As pictured - good mounting location for the ballast and wiring. I used a second wire tie on the ballast after the picture was taken. The wiring was cut/soldered, and put in split loom with the grommet as with the low-beam side, however, more lenght (closer to 8-10" of split loom will be required on this side.
Attachment 7436
2. Route the wires inside of the radiator cap and use 2 adhesive-backed wire tie mounts hidden under the small lip of the fairing --- note, you will need to remove the inner fairing and the coolant tank to access this area and to drill the hole for the grommet.
Attachment 7437
3. Drill a 1/2" hole in the bottom of the headlight housing at a downward and outward angle. Make sure that the location has clearance inside the housing and the the wiring and grommet will clear the steering damper rod. NOTE!!! ---Be extremely careful drilling into the housing. There is not much clearance inside and the tiny wires for the marker light are very difficult to repair (not that I would know from experience :-) Seal the grommet with RTV again and install the bulb, wires, grommet, and cap. This picture shows grommet location and wire routing.
Attachment 7438
4. Finished installation.
Attachment 7439
5. This picture was taken after the low-beam installation to show the difference between the halogen and the 6000K HID bulb. I am very happy with the color --- not too yellow, not too blue.
Attachment 7440

[viperclaw]

Very nice. May try this on mine. I have both and tucked the ballasts and igniters under the lights in the front of the bike. Fairly clean but not as clean as yours. May try something similar leaving them in my location but drilling and wiring through the bottom of the lights as you have. That way when or if I need to remove the front section the ballasts and ignitors will remain in the front section all as one unit.

Thanks for the walkthrough with pics!

[ereinders]

Thank you. I considered mounting everything on the top side of the front fairing as well, but appeared to be a bit tight. This was obviously more time consuming than other installations (at least 2 hours per side) but I'm happy with the result.

For some reason the second set of pictures didn't upload. Trying again...

[ereinders]

One more picture to show the 6000K color after completion. The previous picture was taken with the ignition key on (not running) which doesn't allow the HIDs to fully warm up. This picture was taken after idling for about 30 seconds.

I ordered some 6000K LED (W5W) city lights from iJDMTOY.com based on a previous post by Viperclaw. The originals look a bit odd in contrast to the HIDs. More on that later...

Also, please note that 1offmotorsports indicated that cutting the factory leads as I did will void the HID warranty --- definitely worth the risk to me.

[cloudy]

Originally Posted by ereinders

The previous picture was taken with the ignition key on (not running) which doesn't allow the HIDs to fully warm up.

Attachment 7452

Neither of my headlights have ever worked at all unless the bike is running, not the stock bulbs nor the current HID's. I'd assumed it was that way to maximize starting voltage and current, and I actually prefer it that way as I use the headlight circuit to trigger a relay to pickup the charging circuit for my GoPro and GPS.

Apparently yours will light with just the key on?

[ereinders]

The headlights turn on with the ignition key for approximately 5 seconds then shut off until the engine is started.

[1000RR]

Originally Posted by ereinders

The headlights turn on with the ignition key for approximately 5 seconds then shut off until the engine is started.

My 2010 doesn't do this... gotta have it running for them to turn on.

[ereinders]

Hmmmm....weird. Maybe it was a change for 2011? I can actually hear the solenoid engage (click) when the key is turned on and disengage (click) after 5 seconds when they shut off. Also...if I turn the key off and back on immediately, the lights won't come back on. The key has to be off for about 30 seconds or more before the lights will come back on again with the switch.

I was also surprised to find that spring clips hold the headlight bulbs in place. Lots of posts have mentioned some type of metal ring with tabs. In order to remove the bulb, the tabs have to be bent? Lots of people seemed to dislike them.

Not sure...seems odd to make such minor lighting changes between model years, but maybe BMW felt like being odd...

[viperclaw]

Mine come on for a couple of seconds also. If the high beam switch is on for sure. Not so sure both come on if it is in low beam only position.

Early production 2010.