Riders Discount S1000 RR Race Bike

[RidersDiscount]

While the Brembo HP brake calipers aren't bad, we wanted to give our rider the best possible performance when he reaches for the anchors. So, it's out with the excellent two-piece Brembo calipers and in with the ultimate Brembo monobloc calipers!


The 32mm and 36mm drilled-titanium pistons not only contribute to the light weight of the CNC-machined aluminum calipers (3.1lbs for BOTH), but they also improve cooling efficiency and consequently, braking performance.


Switching out the one-piece pads is easy with a single retention pin holding them in place.


We'll get you some photos of these mounted on the bike soon.

[DrIoannis]

Beautiful piece of machinery.

[LiterBoy]

I don't usually pay attention to how a caliper looks, but those brembos are so cool!

[robbskittles]

Originally Posted by RidersDiscount

Amazing work! My hats off to ya... bad ass detail post!

[RidersDiscount]

Well, this is it guys - if you need the absolute best master cylinder available - look no further than the 19x18 Brembo "kit" unit you see here. It'll be making its way to our BMW very shortly.


The entire master cylinder is machined from aluminum and comes straight out of the box with titanium hardware for securing it to your handlebar.


Connecting brake lines is made easier thanks to this angled spigot. It gives the chassis builder a little more room to work with for riders who like to run the brake lever steep.


Another advantage of this design is the right-angle adjuster knob. Again, this is done with the chassis builder in mind as it's easier to run a remote adjuster in front of the triple clamps.


Notice also that the bleeder valve is located at the absolute highest point within the brake system. This makes it a little easier to remove every last bit of air from the brake lines.


All logos have been hand painted.

[Spd_Dmn]

Between the calipers and master cylinder, you've got a ton of money in brakes alone. You going to finish off the setup with carbon rotors?

[RidersDiscount]

Unfortunately they are not allowed in the AMA

[RidersDiscount]

The RidersDiscount.com BMW S1000RR floats over the hump at Grattan Raceway last weekend in testing.

[Rush66crp]

DISREGARD, I figured it out. I just put it in neutral, inserted an allen key in the chain and turned it until the key kept the chain from moving any further and it came right off!!

So I went this method for removing my front sprocket as opposed to the RepRom method of loosening front sprocket with chain still on and I was surprise to find that my front sprocket nut is actually not surprisingly TIGHT! Now when I attempt to remove with 32mm socket and 25'' breaker bar the drive just continues to spin. I understand that if I had a pneumatic I could put it in neutral and take it off fairly easily. Unfortunately, I don't have a pneumatic and I'm not sure I'd feel comfortable doing that even if I did.

Any tips from anyone? Did I hurt my drive train from turning it over like that?

Originally Posted by RidersDiscount

We’ve had a few people ask how to go about installing a BMW S1000RR 520 conversion kit. Here, we’ll show you how we did it on our bike. We used a DiD ERV3 chain and Renthal sprockets for our bike, though Vortex and other companies also make suitable chainwheels for this bike. Chain removal is a fairing straight forward affair and you have choices of cutting or grinding the OEM chain. We prefer to push out the pins with our DiD KM500 chain tool. This all-in-one tool is capable of both removing and installing rivet link chains and is what you’ll find in our toolbox.

Items you need:
Tools (Torx and large metric sockets)
Torque wrench
Chain tool
OEM BMW countershaft sprocket flange
Paddock stand

Generally, it’s easiest to remove the chain with the rear wheel still on the bike, so do this first. Next, remove the front sprocket. You first need to tamper down the flange plate that’s designed to keep the countershaft sprocket nut from backing out. After that, we were surprised to find that a). the nut was surprisingly loose and b). the OEM countershaft nut is aluminum! Once this is done, replace the countershaft chainwheel and be sure to keep the side with writing facing out! Replace the flange and nut. You can’t tighten it yet, wait until you have the whole chain in place.


Now you can take the rear wheel out along with the rear sprocket. Notice, there’s anti-seize on the lugs, don’t wipe this off and if there isn’t much on there, don’t be afraid to add your own after you put the new rear sprocket in place. First, hand-tighten then toque each nut to spec. Re-install the rear wheel on the bike.


Before getting to the actual chain installation, now is a good time to apply grease to the rivet link. Don’t be afraid to use it up, but don’t forget to leave enough for the other link plate.


With the rear wheel on, feed the chain over the top of the rear sprocket and towards the front countershaft sprocket.




Our in-house mechanic Tim also works as pit crew for Celtic Racing’s AMA Team. He’d had plenty of experience with other chain tools, but never used the DiD so he had some reading to do. It never hurts to read the directions or ask questions.

[RidersDiscount]

I highly doubt you hurt the bike.