Oil Check / Oil Change - only 2.9 L to fill!

Waeltken · 10-23-2011, 09:39 AM

Hey all,

I am confused as to the procedure for checking the oil level on my S1000RR.

In the manual it states this:
[*]Make sure the engine is at operating temperature and hold the motorcycle upright.[*]Allow the engine to idle for one minute.[*]Switch off the ignition.

So checking the oil level while the bike is on the side stand is going to lead to an incorrect reading on the viewing glass? Do you guys recruit a second person to hold the bike upright for you to check or do use a set of stands / wheel chock?

I did an oil change on the bike, while it was on its side stand and noticed that it only took 2.9 L of new oil to have the viewing glass show an oil level at MAX. BMW states that the bike should take about 3.5 L of oil after a complete drain and filter change. Where are the remaining 0.6 L on my bike? Could it be that draining the oil sump with the bike on it's side stand allows for some oil to remain in the engine?

Any help would be much appreciated as I don't want to ride her with the incorrect amount of oil in the engine.

Thanks,

- H

Brett64 · 10-23-2011, 11:27 AM

Start her up and the level will drop. I usually put close to 3.5l first though.

Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app

**viperclaw** · 10-23-2011, 12:18 PM

You need to start the motor if you haven't otherwise the oil filter is empty still. Bike also needs to be upright when you check it. Either have someone else hold it up for you, put it on a paddock stand or simply hold the left bar end and push the bike up till it is at the balance point. It will be level then. Check the oil level. Be carefull of course when doing this. Do it on a level surface. Engine should also be warm.

Like the above stated, it will take about 3.5 quarts (or liters).

Rainman · 10-23-2011, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by viperclaw

You need to start the motor if you haven't otherwise the oil filter is empty still. Bike also needs to be upright when you check it. Either have someone else hold it up for you, put it on a paddock stand or simply hold the left bar end and push the bike up till it is at the balance point. It will be level then. Check the oil level. Be carefull of course when doing this. Do it on a level surface. Engine should also be warm.

Like the above stated, it will take about 3.5 quarts (or liters).

A rear wheel stand affects "level" as well. I put a 2x4 under the side stand with both wheels on the garage floor. That helps me pull against a tip over while bent over and checking. Works pretty good. You have got to run the engine up to operating temp and then let it sit for a minute or two after shutting it off. Careful not to go over the top of the sight glass, it's easy to do.

skapan · 10-23-2011, 01:07 PM

Mine took just under 3.5, probably because I drained it while it was on the rear stand.
The procedure I use to check - engine REALLY warmed up, like 20 minutes riding. Shut off, wait 2 minutes, raise bike to level and look in window.
Cold, after the oil change, the level should be in the lower half of the window otherwise it will be over full when warmed up.

markjenn · 10-23-2011, 04:09 PM

This isn't rocket science.

The sight glass only works if the bike is reasonably upright and level. You can use the stand, an assistant, or (if you're careful), just balance the bike as you kneel down and check it. If you're really concerned the bike might fall over while you're checking, do it with a wall backing up the right side. I doubt the slight fore/aft mis-level due to the rear stand is a significant source of error, but you can use a 2x4 or something similar if you want to be super precise. I've never bothered.

Oil level should be checked hot, but I've never noticed a huge difference from a cold check. (Does hot vs. cold result in a 1/2 window difference in the sight glass as someone said? I've never noted anything remotely close to this and I don't think the coefficient of thermal expansion of oil is large enough to result in huge changes like this, but it is still a good idea to be consistent.) Likewise, it's a good idea to leave the bike sit 5-10 minutes after running to get all the oil in the sump before checking, but again, I don't think the S1000RR has any propensity to "hide oil". (On the boxers, you need some drain time on the sidestand to get consistent draining, but I've never noticed this on the S1000RR.)

During oil changes, run the bike long enough to get the oil warm, put on a stand, drain everything, then fill the sump with the spec'ed amount. Start the engine, check for leaks, and go for a ride. Then check with the same procedure, and adjust as necessary (which you probably won't have to). Keep in mind that the sight glass represents 800ml (edit: corrected after looking it up) or so between min and max - you should never have to add more than 400ml or so at a time.

If you don't have a stand, you probably should consider one if you're going to do your own oil changes and other routine maintenance. I haven't heard that the sump doesn't drain completely on the side stand, but it's possible. You could also do the trick of starting the draining and then balancing the bike to complete it, but better to get a stand.

- Mark

**viperclaw** · 10-23-2011, 07:55 PM

Doesn't have to be on the side stand to drain. The sump has a fin that goes between the exhaust pipes--between the two left and the two right collectors. The drain plug is on the "fin" and is the lowest part of the motor.

No it isn't "rocket science" but he is asking for help not some biting wit.

markjenn · 10-24-2011, 12:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by viperclaw

Doesn't have to be on the side stand to drain. The sump has a fin that goes between the exhaust pipes--between the two left and the two right collectors. The drain plug is on the "fin" and is the lowest part of the motor.

The question was not whether you needed to drain on the sidestand. The question was whether you needed to drain on the center stand to get a full drain.

- Mark

**viperclaw** · 10-24-2011, 12:28 PM

Either way it is the same. The plug is still the lowest point whether it is on the side stand or on a paddock stand. The fin on the sump is actually about 3 inches deep (an approximation) so a little angle is not going to matter when draining. You can actually drain it on the side and then tip it upright and see how much more comes out. There is a slight amount of oil that will remain in the front part of the fin but it won't matter what angle the bike is at to get that out (unless you jack up the front wheel about 6 inches).

Any extra oil you may wring out of the bottom is inconsequential to the amount remaining in the oil passages, the clutch basket, and the vavle train or camshaft area.

markjenn · 10-24-2011, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by viperclaw

Either way it is the same. The plug is still the lowest point whether it is on the side stand or on a paddock stand.

You're probably right, but I wouldn't mind verifying this - there can be some weird bafflling going in sumps or some part of the motor higher up that traps oil after a side-stand shutdown. There is some reason why the OP was 0.6L short in the refill after an oil change on the side stand. My guess is that he was checking it before he started the engine or was mis-reading the level due to the side-stand problem.

I haven't heard the 3.5L fill spec is off. But I must admit I haven't actually done an oil change on my bike - letting the dealer do it during the warrany period. I may do an extra one now rather than have the bike sit over the winter with (slightly - 2.5K miles) dirty oil in it.

- Mark