1) Yes, the bike is full of that diarrhetic break-in oil.
2) While you can get your hand in there from the left to get to the oil filter, it makes life much simpler to just pull the left lower. There's about nine screws all told, all in obvious locations and easily accessed with a T-25.
3) This is the first new bike I've ever had where the OEM filter wasn't *welded* in place. Much appreciated! My bike came with the 541 filter, but the dealer sold me a 779 as the replacement. I understand there's some debate about which is correct, I'm just reporting my experience. A "B" cap wrench will fit the 779, but the 541 uses some proprietary wrench. My oil filter vice grips made that a moot point.
4) Oil drain plug is easily accessible and again not overtightened. It has an integral magnet, and mine definitely had some metal on it, but nothing scary.
5) I don't see any way to get the filter out without making a mess. Probably the best way would be to make a little spillway out of foil to keep it off the headers; I tried with rags and failed. Ended up spritzing everything down with WD-40 and then Simple Green to get it clean in there.
6) Bike took just under 4 bottles of Castrol - don't remember if those were liters or quarts. Oddly, I never got a "low oil pressure" light even on first startup; most bikes I get that for two or three seconds until the filter fills and primes. I'm not complaining.
KeS
BTW - With the lower off, you can see that there are a couple of big-ass threaded holes in the engine. Don't know if those are there for installation, or what, but they certainly look functional.