rear brakes.

[sonny1]

how do you remove rear brake pads,the small retaining pin through the r
ear of the pads hates me and wont come out.
[ so after two days of silence i take it none of you know either]

[breakawayBMW]

Nobody has replied, because I don't think there are too many people who use their rear brakes on a sport bike enough to be replacing them already. The only time I ever use my rear brakes is when I'm on gravel or already stopped and just want to sit up on the bike and release the front brakes. If you don't have a ton of miles on your bike than you are using too much rear brake to be replacing the pads already. I know that doesn't help your situation, but I just thought I would give you a safety tip for the street. Your rear tire grip under braking is just about useless. I will admit, it's fun to see the ABS in action, but if you ever need to really stop the front is where you get the job done.

[sonny1]

the brakes are linked,each time you use the front you use the rear [abs model].
thanks for the riding lesson,im 62 years old been riding since i was 15 and never knew that!

[breakawayBMW]

I have the abs model as well and they are not linked as I understand it. Only in the wheel speed sense of things. If you grab only one brake, that is the only one doing the work. If that same wheel sensor detects that it is going slower than the other, then it will cause abs to reduce pressure on the caliper.

[breakawayBMW]

Originally Posted by sonny1

the brakes are linked,each time you use the front you use the rear [abs model].
thanks for the riding lesson,im 62 years old been riding since i was 15 and never knew that!

No problem on the lesson. Haha. I learned that when I went from a cruiser to a sport bike. Then even more so when I started track riding.

[sonny1]

please read page 96 of s1000rr manual.

[breakawayBMW]

Originally Posted by sonny1

please read page 96 of s1000rr manual.

Wow! I did not know that. I guess I can expect to change the brakes in the rear a lot quicker now. Thanks for that. What I want to know now is just how much pressure is applied to the rear when using the Front Brake lever. I

[DrIoannis]

The brakes are linked but the pressure applied on the rear brake when you apply the front is not as much as pushing the rear brake lever when braking.I am going to change for 2nd time the front brake pads and the rear is not even in the middle of its life.

[viperclaw]

Originally Posted by sonny1

how do you remove rear brake pads,the small retaining pin through the r
ear of the pads hates me and wont come out.
[ so after two days of silence i take it none of you know either]

First push on the brake caliper--hold the disc with your fingers and press on the caliper with your thumbs--to push the piston back into the caliper. Make sure there is room in the fluid reservoir for the fluid to move back. This should not be a problem unless you added or changed brake fluid. If you did change or add just remove the cap when pushing on the caliper but make sure when you do you don't overflow the reservoir--again only if you added or changed the initial fluid level.
Remove the clip--I think it has one but if not forget this step.
Use a small punch that fits in the hole and tap, tap, tap, until it comes out. After about 1/2 inch or so you should be able to pull it out--the back side or pull to the left side of the bike. Tap from the right side.
The pads will come or fall out.
Insert the new pads but make sure that the end of the pad that is inserted first located correctly before inserting the pin.
To install the pin tap it in from the opposite side of removal. You can use a punch--probably one with a larger head--but a brass drift is preferably if you have one. Don't hammer it in. Tap--with a hammer.
You'll know it is in when you can turn the retaining pin--the one you tap in--with your fingers or a pair of pliers. If it is not in it won't turn with your fingers but it may turn with pliers if you force it. It should turn with your fingers--may be stiff but should turn/rotate. Should turn with pliers fairly easily if fully seated.
Install clip if it has one. May fit through a hole on the pin or it may just go around the pin. Depends on the design. I have not done any pads on the S yet but generally these instructions will work for any floating caliper type of brake--front or rear.

[Reciprocal]

Originally Posted by viperclaw

First push on the brake caliper--hold the disc with your fingers and press on the caliper with your thumbs--to push the piston back into the caliper. Make sure there is room in the fluid reservoir for the fluid to move back. This should not be a problem unless you added or changed brake fluid. If you did change or add just remove the cap when pushing on the caliper but make sure when you do you don't overflow the reservoir--again only if you added or changed the initial fluid level.
Remove the clip--I think it has one but if not forget this step.
Use a small punch that fits in the hole and tap, tap, tap, until it comes out. After about 1/2 inch or so you should be able to pull it out--the back side or pull to the left side of the bike. Tap from the right side.
The pads will come or fall out.
Insert the new pads but make sure that the end of the pad that is inserted first located correctly before inserting the pin.
To install the pin tap it in from the opposite side of removal. You can use a punch--probably one with a larger head--but a brass drift is preferably if you have one. Don't hammer it in. Tap--with a hammer.
You'll know it is in when you can turn the retaining pin--the one you tap in--with your fingers or a pair of pliers. If it is not in it won't turn with your fingers but it may turn with pliers if you force it. It should turn with your fingers--may be stiff but should turn/rotate. Should turn with pliers fairly easily if fully seated.
Install clip if it has one. May fit through a hole on the pin or it may just go around the pin. Depends on the design. I have not done any pads on the S yet but generally these instructions will work for any floating caliper type of brake--front or rear.

Excellent! Also props to Viperclaw for his description of how the dealer can reprogram to eliminate the Lampr! warning when you disconnect brake lights, (like for track days). You made it possible for my dealer to perform the reflash. Thanks.

To Sonny1...if only the newbies had a clue...