Clutch Bolt Loose

[Britracer]

I put a Factory Pro clutch spring in and did everything else per the manual. I borrowed my neigbours torque wrench as mine didn't go up to 150nm that the main bolt needs.

Anyway, this bike is a build up from a crashed bike to go onto the track. I havn't riden it anywheer but today ran it up and down my drive, just 1st and second gears were used.

After it had sat, I went to turn the bike on, pulled the clutch lever in and it was real soft and barely engaged the clutch. I turned the bike off.

I thought maybe the thrust bolt lock nut couls have come loose some how. Anyway, took the clutch cover off, the torue bolt was fine.

Took the spring and the plate retainer off and noticed that the main big collar nut was turned slightly out of the position where i punched the two sides into the detents 9to supposedly stop it rotating).

Anyway, i could turn the nut off by hand! This must be why the thing was out of adjustment.

I read the STM install and they say to torque that thing down with an air gun, oruse a torque wrench.

My question is: do you think it was just not enough torque?...this needs a lot I know and I am ordering a new collar nut. I used the old one before. Just wondering if maybe it wasn't enough.

Anyway advice would be great if any of you have some knowledge in this area.

[viperclaw]

Would definetly not use an air gun--impact gun?--to put it on. You would be hammering on the bearings of the crankshaft essentially. May not do damage but do you want to risk it? Use a torque wrench and make sure that the wrench has been serviced--calibrated--and is of good quality. Also make sure the basket is fully seated. I think the drive teeth on the basket and that of the crankshaft drive gear should be flush or even with each other. I have only taken one off and that was about a year ago so someone else should also chime in hear.

[Britracer]

Very true. I was surprised to see the STM install mentioned the use of the air gun, not just to take off the not, but install too!

Anyway, I have a new collar nut coming and will make sure the wrench is properly calibrated.

Any advice is always appreciated. I'm just glad I ran this bike around at home a bit before taking to the track in a few weeks!

[cloudy]

Was the clutch nut that came loose a new or used one? If it was "used" I'd suspect that was the problem. I wrestled with the fact that the nut cost somewhere around $45 when I put the Factory Pro spring in, but did it anyway just because I didn't want to risk the "nut detents" landing in the same location, resulting in a questionable ability to properly lock the nuts position.

fwiw I took my clutch nut off with an impact, but torque wrenched it "on" with no problem.

[dubbo0]

Originally Posted by Britracer

I put a Factory Pro clutch spring in and did everything else per the manual. I borrowed my neigbours torque wrench as mine didn't go up to 150nm that the main bolt needs.

Anyway, this bike is a build up from a crashed bike to go onto the track. I havn't riden it anywheer but today ran it up and down my drive, just 1st and second gears were used.

After it had sat, I went to turn the bike on, pulled the clutch lever in and it was real soft and barely engaged the clutch. I turned the bike off.

I thought maybe the thrust bolt lock nut couls have come loose some how. Anyway, took the clutch cover off, the torue bolt was fine.

Took the spring and the plate retainer off and noticed that the main big collar nut was turned slightly out of the position where i punched the two sides into the detents 9to supposedly stop it rotating).

Anyway, i could turn the nut off by hand! This must be why the thing was out of adjustment.

I read the STM install and they say to torque that thing down with an air gun, oruse a torque wrench.

My question is: do you think it was just not enough torque?...this needs a lot I know and I am ordering a new collar nut. I used the old one before. Just wondering if maybe it wasn't enough.

Anyway advice would be great if any of you have some knowledge in this area.

If you remove the clutch basket to install Factory Pro spring ,when you refit the clutch basket it has to refit on a raised key way, if you dont locate it right the nut would seem to be tight when you torque it, but when you start the engine and try the clutch it would move fit in the key way and the nut would be loose and the clutch would stop working

[Britracer]

Originally Posted by dubbo0

If you remove the clutch basket to install Factory Pro spring ,when you refit the clutch basket it has to refit on a raised key way, if you dont locate it right the nut would seem to be tight when you torque it, but when you start the engine and try the clutch it would move fit in the key way and the nut would be loose and the clutch would stop working

Thanks for the advice all. I am wndering about the keyway and how to check to be double sure its in right. I am thinking that if this was the case now it must have located itself right for me to have been able to undo the nut by hand!!! For thetrouble of it all I have got a new nut and cover bolts coming...hum...this friggin bike better earn its keep on track! Lol

[dubbo0]

Originally Posted by Britracer

Thanks for the advice all. I am wndering about the keyway and how to check to be double sure its in right. I am thinking that if this was the case now it must have located itself right for me to have been able to undo the nut by hand!!! For thetrouble of it all I have got a new nut and cover bolts coming...hum...this friggin bike better earn its keep on track! Lol

When i put my factory pro spring in i nearly made the same mistake, yours should be located now, but if you take your clutch basket out and look for the raised key way you will notice when its in the wrong position, the gear on the basket will not be in line with its drive gear, alternatively buy a cd manual from e bay and it will explain everything i dont think they cost much and well worth the investment