What size torque wrench

[Fixinbones]

I'm looking for a torque wrench for miscellaneous nut and bolt tightening on my bikes. Don't know if I should get a 3/8" or 1/2" drive. Any advice?

[Mack]

A 3/8" Craftsman clicker should be good enough for a motorcycle. You aren't doing cast iron heads and steel stuff that requires a 1/2" drive or some tractor with 1"+ bolt threads that takes a 3/4" or 1" drive.

Just get some Harbor Freight 3/8" if you're cheap. Not as nicely finished, but they agree with my pricey digital torque meter for a mere $20 and less when on sale. Jam a bolt in a vise and see if it clicks and you are pretty much good to go. Fwiw, a 1/4" TW is pretty much a waste of $'s, imho. Oh, and release the handle tension while idle.

If money is no object, then a Snap-On Electrotork for $1,700 ought to do it too. I know a Mercedes dealership and a couple of mechanics who have those, but they never ever use them. Just a fish to pull out and brag about as well as tax write-off on their tools.

Having watched a few mechanics, they never seem to use one. Too much time wasted looking up values and they do it by feel instead. When I worked in that field, I don't think anyone in the shop even owned a torque wrench including the owner. It's beneath their dignity to admit they "Cannot feel the proper torque" and need to use such a device. Ever watch a tire guy? They use the impact gun for ons and offs. Some even "torque-by-the-sound" their rattle gun makes. They might set it a bit lower on the dial for ons though, but grab and crank-up and use a torque wrench? No way.

Then we later wonder why our threads are stripped or rotors are warped, like you think your dealer's mechanic gives a crap about your precious vehicle. Mechanics take "short cuts" ya' know.

Personally, you'd be better off getting a decent-fitting German-made T-25 Torx driver for the bike from Wiha Tools along with some cheapo TW from Harbor Freight. If the bits or sockets don't fit worth a crap and round off stuff, the wrench is a distant issue.


Mack

[bsinclair]

i own a snap-on click type in 3/8 and 1/2. since the 3/8 goes to 75ft lbs it will do almost everything on the bike. i say purchase a good 3/8 click type and be done with it..

[meatbag]

Originally Posted by Mack

A 3/8" Craftsman clicker should be good enough for a motorcycle. You aren't doing cast iron heads and steel stuff that requires a 1/2" drive or some tractor with 1"+ bolt threads that takes a 3/4" or 1" drive.

Just get some Harbor Freight 3/8" if you're cheap. Not as nicely finished, but they agree with my pricey digital torque meter for a mere $20 and less when on sale. Jam a bolt in a vise and see if it clicks and you are pretty much good to go. Fwiw, a 1/4" TW is pretty much a waste of $'s, imho. Oh, and release the handle tension while idle.

If money is no object, then a Snap-On Electrotork for $1,700 ought to do it too. I know a Mercedes dealership and a couple of mechanics who have those, but they never ever use them. Just a fish to pull out and brag about as well as tax write-off on their tools.

Having watched a few mechanics, they never seem to use one. Too much time wasted looking up values and they do it by feel instead. When I worked in that field, I don't think anyone in the shop even owned a torque wrench including the owner. It's beneath their dignity to admit they "Cannot feel the proper torque" and need to use such a device. Ever watch a tire guy? They use the impact gun for ons and offs. Some even "torque-by-the-sound" their rattle gun makes. They might set it a bit lower on the dial for ons though, but grab and crank-up and use a torque wrench? No way.

Then we later wonder why our threads are stripped or rotors are warped, like you think your dealer's mechanic gives a crap about your precious vehicle. Mechanics take "short cuts" ya' know.

Personally, you'd be better off getting a decent-fitting German-made T-25 Torx driver for the bike from Wiha Tools along with some cheapo TW from Harbor Freight. If the bits or sockets don't fit worth a crap and round off stuff, the wrench is a distant issue.


Mack

I wouldnt want to have anything worked on at those places

As someone who owns a speed shop we pretty much use a tq wrench on all critical bolts for consistency especially when more then one person is working on a vehicle.

And those tire guys that are putting on wheel studs with impacts are using tq-limiting bits. Once it gets down to the rated tq for that bit it flexes enough for the gun to click over but not actually torque the stud down anymore.

Spend some money on a decent tq wrench. Doesnt matter who makes it as long as its a good 3/8" that is accurate for +/- 3%, that will handle everything you need.

[Thugsfatboy]

Qualified mechanic for way too many years and usually the only thing you used a Tq wrench on was Head bolts ,Crank journals and Rods nearly all other bolts are done by feel
The only Machines i have used a Tq wrench on was when i did 14 yrs in the Airforce and you checked the Tq on every nut and bolt on C130 hercs,FA18 Hornets and Hawk 127 jets
3/8 will cover just about everything on a bike but if its not a good one and you dont have anywhere to get it checked for accuracy then you are just guessing

[markjenn]

3/8" with a range of about 10-75 ft-lb is the one most start with. It will cover 90% of stuff, but you'll eventually find you need both a smaller one and possibly a larger one. It takes 3 to cover everything from minor 4 ft-lb fasteners all the way up to 100+ ft-lb head bolts, wheel studs, etc.

- Mark

[Toynut]

I have a half dozen or so torque wrenches in different sizes and styles for different applications and hobbies. This one is by far the easiest to use and should cover the range of torque values you will need for just about every fastener on a bike with a +/-2% across the whole scale (many clicker type wrenches are their most accurate only in the middle of their range).

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...G4#reviewsWrap

or this one:
http://www.toolsource.com/torque-ang...rceid=googleps

Remember to handle any torque wrench carefully and sensibly. Do not use it to unfasten or break stuck fasteners as most are not designed to loosen under excessive torque (say a red thread-locked fastener). Put them back in the case and if you end up with a clicker-type, make sure you set it back to minimal torque setting before storing it, and if it came in a plastic case, store it properly. I use lithium batteries in my electronic wrenches). You must also practice proper torque practices when using a wrench for maximum precision and accuracy. Keep the wrench perpendicular to the fastener, tighten in a smooth and constant motion (do not jerk the wrench to reach a particular torque value), use the ratchet mechanism to keep the wrench in a close proximity to your body (do not try to spin it away from you (work from 3-9 o'clock max), do not hold the wrench body or the ratchet head, or the socket unnecessarily which cause an inaccurate reading (usually on the plus side). Make sure that the fastener in question is in good shape and when necessary chase the threads with a proper tap or die to make sure there is no undue friction to artificially raise the torque value. Check to see if a torque spec calls for an oiled fastener torque value setting (usually not, but it does on occasion on engine components) and observe that the temperature of the fastener also impacts the torque value (i.e. hot fastener or engine block versus cold/frozen from outdoor winter garage repair (most factory torque specs are quoted at room temps (65-75F).
Buy the best quality wrench you can afford and treat it like the precision instrument that it is.

[markjenn]

My opinion is to stay away from the fancy electronic ones and stick to "clickers".

- Mark

[Kman]

Just ordered a 3/8" and a 1/4" Precision Instrument clicker from Tool Source. 8 weeks back ordered from the factory. What are the comments on Precision Instruments Torque Wrenches?

[Sal_R1]

Fact!

Originally Posted by Mack

Just get some Harbor Freight 3/8" if you're cheap. Not as nicely finished, but they agree with my pricey digital torque meter for a mere $20 and less when on sale. Jam a bolt in a vise and see if it clicks and you are pretty much good to go. Fwiw, a 1/4" TW is pretty much a waste of $'s, imho. Oh, and release the handle tension while idle.

If money is no object, then a Snap-On Electrotork for $1,700 ought to do it too. I know a Mercedes dealership and a couple of mechanics who have those, but they never ever use them. Just a fish to pull out and brag about as well as tax write-off on their tools.

Having watched a few mechanics, they never seem to use one. Too much time wasted looking up values and they do it by feel instead. When I worked in that field, I don't think anyone in the shop even owned a torque wrench including the owner. It's beneath their dignity to admit they "Cannot feel the proper torque" and need to use such a device. Ever watch a tire guy? They use the impact gun for ons and offs. Some even "torque-by-the-sound" their rattle gun makes. They might set it a bit lower on the dial for ons though, but grab and crank-up and use a torque wrench? No way.

Then we later wonder why our threads are stripped or rotors are warped, like you think your dealer's mechanic gives a crap about your precious vehicle. Mechanics take "short cuts" ya' know.

Mack