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07-01-2010, 06:35 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 641
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How to remove excess engine oil?
I checked the oil level after a long track day and it seems that I may have too much oil...I cannot see the oil level in the indicator so I'm assuming it's above the Max level. I changed the oil recently and put in about 3.7 lts. Anyway, is it advisable to reduce some oil and if so, what's the best (easiest) way to remove excess engine oil? Thanks in advance for any replies
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2011 BMW S1000RR Thunder Gray
2008 CBR 1000RR Custom Race Colors
Fool me once
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07-01-2010, 06:54 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Honolulu, HI
Posts: 271
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I'm not entirely sure if this idea will work, and I'm not going out to my bike to check the oil fill.
If you look at your bike before I do tomorrow, it may be possible to use a syringe from a pet store or cooking store and suck some oil out with an attachment. Otherwise you'll be doing it the redneck way of removing the drain and franticly screwing it back in when you think you've drained enough.
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07-01-2010, 09:22 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Sponsor/Admin
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: US/NM
Posts: 6,353
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There is a plug next to the filter also... where you can remove it and drain the oil from the filter prior to taking it (the filter) off. However, it may be just as easy to remove the regular oil plug.
FWIW... I've done a couple oil changes on my bike, and when I added oil, it was always less than 3.5L although the book says 3.7. In fact I'd say it was closer to 3.4 or even a hair less.
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07-01-2010, 10:12 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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R.I.P., you will be missed but never forgotten...
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,024
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The workshop manual says 3.5l with oil filter change. That does not mean that there is not 3.7l of fuel in it, only that it does not all come out. If may even be that if you do not have perfect condictions for draining the oil (perfectly level left to right and front to back) that even 3.5l is too much. I would put 3.2l in, start it let it warm and then keep on adding little bits till it's done.
P.S. I used the sump plug to drain the excess  . Got to be sharp though!!
N.
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07-01-2010, 10:12 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 218
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On my R1 I have used the cheap gas syphon you can pick up at any auto parts store.
Just syphon from the oil fill cap.
Has a squeeze bulb and some cleear tubing.
You say you can't see oil??? That would mean it is too low or are you saying the sight glass is filled with oil and you can't see the oil line or air even if you tilt the bike toward the muffler side while looking? BTW the bike needs to be level (not on sidestand). If you can't see oil when it is on the sidestand it is WAY TOO LOW. If you don't see the oil line when you lean it to the muffler side it is WAY TOO HIGH.
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07-01-2010, 10:15 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Sponsor/Admin
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: US/NM
Posts: 6,353
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The Owner's Manual says it's 3.9L with oil filter change (page 149 Owners Manual)... I was a little off... none-the-less, I have found that it takes shy of 3.5L
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07-01-2010, 12:24 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: So cal county line
Posts: 1,011
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When i changed mine it took 3.6 ..... it is level with me sitting on it and the oil level comes up to the top of the RED circle in the sight glass it does not go over the RED circle and i can see a clear spot beteen the top of the sight glass just up to the top RED circle ...
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SO.CAL.we ride all year long
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07-01-2010, 12:58 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Silver Spring, Maryland
Posts: 194
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Use a turkey baster inserted into the oil filler neck.
There's an alternate, if related, definition of "turkey baster" so I've attached a photo for the sake of clarity.
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07-01-2010, 03:29 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Kent UK
Posts: 577
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Think i read that level checks need to be done after its been run/warm? maybe thats the differences............
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07-01-2010, 04:15 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Sponsor/Admin
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: US/NM
Posts: 6,353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bananaman
Think i read that level checks need to be done after its been run/warm? maybe thats the differences............
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Correct, it should be checked after the bike is up to normal operating conditions... which in essence would read higher than if it were cold. If you filled it to the top while cold, then it will be above the site glass when the bike is hot/warm.
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