Axle nut damaging threads?

[kevin_stevens]

I've had the rear wheel off half a dozen times now for various reasons, and that self-locking axle nut is just tearing up the axle. I've been using anti-seize on it, no power tools, and it isn't obviously stripping or crossthreading, but it's just very hard to turn throughout the travel, and clearly tearing up the axle threads. I'm now at the point where I'm concerned that I may be looking at buying a replacement axle and nut for my next tire change, which is likely to be hideously expensive.

Anyone have a different experience - like is your axle nut just spinning off and on by hand? I wonder if I just got a bad nut, but the dealer is going to think it's not a warranty issue at this point.

KeS

[markjenn]

Originally Posted by kevin_stevens

I've had the rear wheel off half a dozen times now for various reasons, and that self-locking axle nut is just tearing up the axle. I've been using anti-seize on it, no power tools, and it isn't obviously stripping or crossthreading, but it's just very hard to turn throughout the travel, and clearly tearing up the axle threads. I'm now at the point where I'm concerned that I may be looking at buying a replacement axle and nut for my next tire change, which is likely to be hideously expensive.

Anyone have a different experience - like is your axle nut just spinning off and on by hand? I wonder if I just got a bad nut, but the dealer is going to think it's not a warranty issue at this point.

KeS

Bummer. Are you sure the threads on the axle are suffering? I've had these things be damn hard to turn throughout their locking travel, but the threads on the axle seem fine. So I wouldn't be terribly concerned if the only symptom is having to work to turn it.

If the axle threads are truly suffering, it sounds like the self-locking compound is just wearing out the threads. Maybe the self-locking part is just too aggressive or you have one with bad tolerances. I'd go ahead and replace the nut now rather than risk having to replace the axle. Or how about putting a regular thread nut on there and safety wiring it? (Or even drilling out the axle for a cotter.)

I wish the mfgs would stick to conventional axle nuts, drilled axles, and cotter pins. Simple, safe, no wear issues. If you don't want to screw around with one-time use cotters, you just buy one of those spring-loaded jobbies.

- Mark

[Mack]

Can you chase the threads a bit with some fine-grade valve lapping compound?


Mack

[Slim]

unless they used a nut thats a strangely strong alloy or a oddly soft axle, this shouldnt happen unless perhaps the threads on your particular nut werent tapped proprely. id take it in, thats a factory screw up in my opinion.

[kevin_stevens]

Originally Posted by Mack

Can you chase the threads a bit with some fine-grade valve lapping compound?


Mack

Not with anything I've got - I don't have a 24x1.5 die, or even a standard sized nut to use. I think that thread is used on some car front end pieces, I'll check at the auto parts store.
KeS

[BUZZ]

you did'nt just cross thread it the first time you took it off and tightened it back up but did'nt notice...?????

[kevin_stevens]

I don't think so. It takes a lot of screwup to cross a 1.5 pitch thread.

BTW axle is $111 and nut is $18.

KeS

[Thugsfatboy]

I have just removed my front wheel to get my forks out and whilst i fully understand these bikes have some of the latest electronic aids i feel that some of the build quality is not there as a result i have foud threads etc on front axle to do their job but multiple times may be a different story,it does not seem like quality steel ,and no amount of thread lube will fix this

[M GmbH]

I can get you one of these.
Axle Nut - Rear - Pro-Bolt USA Hardware - Titanium, Stainless Steel, Aluminum Fasteners for Metric Motorcycles & Harley-Davidson

[tcchin]

Originally Posted by kevin_stevens

I don't think so. It takes a lot of screwup to cross a 1.5 pitch thread.

BTW axle is $111 and nut is $18.

KeS

McMaster-Carr has an 18-8 stainless steel M24x1.5 nut that's 36mm across the flats for $9.18 (part no. 91938A155). The full height nut is too tall and would need to be turned down to fit.