Tools for oil change?

LRRS · 03-23-2010, 08:59 PM

Hi guys,

I poked around to try and find the answer in the forum, but didn't see it. Forgive me if I missed it! My questions are:

1. What size is the drain plug? What is the recommended torque value?

2. Do I need to remove bodywork to change the oil?

3. Any tips for keeping oil off the hot exhaust components?

I plan to do this at 100 miles or so, as per the various threads and web-sites on the topic. I don't want to wait for the 600-mile service.

Thanks!

markjenn · 03-23-2010, 09:21 PM

FYI, I used to do 100-mile oil changes with all my vehicles, but I haven't the last three or four and they're all doing fine now, some with huge miles. With today's oils and engines, I just don't think it matters anymore and 600 is already pretty conservative. But suit yourself.

- Mark

LRRS · 03-23-2010, 09:27 PM

I think I have an over-developed sense of mechanical sympathy! Well, that and all those pictures of the crap that is in the oil after the first few hours of running . . .

That said, I know it's more of a conservative worry-wart thing.

**1000RR** · 03-23-2010, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LRRS

I think I have an over-developed sense of mechanical sympathy! Well, that and all those pictures of the crap that is in the oil after the first few hours of running . . .

That said, I know it's more of a conservative worry-wart thing.

I'm with you man... I only have about 80 miles on mine right now, but I plan to change it somewhere between 100 and 150. Just makes me feel better. Did it on my last bike and I was QUITE impressed w/the amount of sparkles in the oil... As Mark mentioned, it is certainly overkill; but that's how I roll.

Doesn't hurt anything... as far as whether it helps or not... I sleep better and that's really all that counts

kevin_stevens · 03-23-2010, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LRRS

Hi guys,

I poked around to try and find the answer in the forum, but didn't see it. Forgive me if I missed it! My questions are:

1. What size is the drain plug? What is the recommended torque value?

2. Do I need to remove bodywork to change the oil?

3. Any tips for keeping oil off the hot exhaust components?

I plan to do this at 100 miles or so, as per the various threads and web-sites on the topic. I don't want to wait for the 600-mile service.

Thanks!

1. Either 6mm or 8mm Allen, I don't recall. About a quarter turn before you strip it.

2. Don't *have* to, but removing the left side bodywork (half a dozen T25 screws) makes getting to the filter much easier. See #3.

3. Change the oil cold and get oil on COLD exhaust components?? I don't think so, though you might get extremely creative with aluminum foil. The drain plug isn't a problem, but the oil filter is just about impossible to avoid serious spillage. Removing the left side bodywork makes it much easier to clean up.

The factory oil filter isn't tightened down with an impact wrench, which is refreshing. However, the factory filter *isn't* the same as the one specified for replacement, and they take different cap wrenches! Be advised and prepared. K&N 164 will fit as a replacement if you're that way inclined, and has a hex nut welded on the nose.

KeS

firearmsdoc · 03-23-2010, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1000RR

I'm with you man... I only have about 80 miles on mine right now, but I plan to change it somewhere between 100 and 150. Just makes me feel better. Did it on my last bike and I was QUITE impressed w/the amount of sparkles in the oil... As Mark mentioned, it is certainly overkill; but that's how I roll.

Doesn't hurt anything... as far as whether it helps or not... I sleep better and that's really all that counts

While picking up my S1000R on March 13th, I asked Chris Katsaros (Sales and Tech.) at BMW of Denver, whether he saw any reason why I shouldn't change the oil at about 100 miles for the reasons you stated. He told me the oil that comes in the S1000RR is a special oil blend put in the bike by BMW to aid in proper break-in. "It has added detergents and properties to help the engine break-in properly that are not present in the regular oil." The oil should not be replaced prior to the 600 service.

Take it for what it is worth. I am not an expert on anything, especially this new motorcycle. I have no reason not to believe him. The dealer could of made more money by doing the oil change, or at least selling me the necessary oil change kit. Maybe another Master Tech who has attended the required S1000RR training can confirm?

**viperclaw** · 03-24-2010, 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LRRS

Hi guys,

I poked around to try and find the answer in the forum, but didn't see it. Forgive me if I missed it! My questions are:

1. What size is the drain plug? What is the recommended torque value?

2. Do I need to remove bodywork to change the oil?

3. Any tips for keeping oil off the hot exhaust components?

I plan to do this at 100 miles or so, as per the various threads and web-sites on the topic. I don't want to wait for the 600-mile service.

Thanks!

Like someone else said: leave the original oil in for at least 400 miles or so. Then change the filter and oil. You can get a wrench to fit the filter at a BMW shop for $25 or so.

To keep from spilling oil on the pipes: remove left lower fairing. cut a piece of cardboard about 4" by 6" or so. trim to fit what you need. crease it a little to form a kind of trench and put it under the oil filter and over the pipes. trim whatever you need to get it in there pretty good. the most important part is close to the engine make sure it is folded upwards so that oil doesn't go over the edge and onto the pipes. loosen the filter first if you can't do it with the cardboard in the way. once it's loose put the cardboard back in place and unscrew it until it comes off. you should have your new one ready and put a little oil on the gasket. install it. torque to 12 Nm, which is hand tight and about a half turn more. wipe any leftover oil from the bottom side of the filter/engine housing area and remove the cardboard. the bottom drain plug is a 8m Allen--90% sure of that size. remove it and let it drain for a few minutes. then reinstall with a NEW crush washer. torque to 30 Nm. some oil may have leaked into the heat shield area but it shouldn't be much of a big deal. squirt a little brake fluid cleaner or simple green or something to loosen it up.

Change your oil with the engine at operating temperature. It drains a lot faster and gets more oil and crap out. should take about 3 and 1/2 quarts.

Don't over-torque. Get a good or at least decent torque wrench. The values I have stated are in Nm Newton-meters and not in ft-lbs. Convert if you need to. Probably around 9 ft-lbs for the filter and 24 ft-lbs for the plug.

LRRS · 03-24-2010, 07:04 AM

Thanks to firearmsdoc and viperclaw. Looks like we are left with a question about leaving the oil in, eh?

markjenn · 03-24-2010, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LRRS

Thanks to firearmsdoc and viperclaw. Looks like we are left with a question about leaving the oil in, eh?

I wouldn't sweat it either way. I doubt a 100-mile oil change does anything beneficial, but I doubt it hurts anything either. There has been rumors of special "break in oil" bandied about with cars too, and when folks do an oil analysis of the factory fill, they see off-the-shelf motor oil, sometimes with a extra dose of moly which is probably there from the assembly lube used during motor assembly.

- Mark

**Sal_R1** · 03-28-2010, 12:44 AM

I wrap them in tin foil prior to changing the oil......

Quote:

Originally Posted by LRRS

Hi guys,

I poked around to try and find the answer in the forum, but didn't see it. Forgive me if I missed it! My questions are:

1. What size is the drain plug? What is the recommended torque value?

2. Do I need to remove bodywork to change the oil?

3. Any tips for keeping oil off the hot exhaust components?

I plan to do this at 100 miles or so, as per the various threads and web-sites on the topic. I don't want to wait for the 600-mile service.

Thanks!