Adjusting/Torquing the Steering Head

[1000RR]

The following is part of what needs to be done at the 600 mile service. I have not performed this; this is a write up from someone "in the know" which was OK w/sharing it to others!

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Adjusting/Torquing the Steering Head
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This is done at the first 600 mile service. Follow the Service Manual for proper intervals beyond the initial service.

Make sure the bike is on the ground and unloaded--don't sit on it while doing this as it will throw the specs off and the steering tube will be way off the center of the triple tree when you go to put it back on--ask me how I know.

Have the bike on the ground on the side-stand--on its wheels. First unscrew the brake fluid reservoir from the upper triple clamp--t-30 Torx--and let it dangle. Next loosen the upper triple clamp bolts that are pinching to the fork tubes--t45 Torx. Then loosen and remove the main nut--the one in the center--holding the triple clamp to the steering tube. Now carefully lift up the triple clamp and move it forward a bit to gain access to the steering head bearing adjuster clamping nut and adjuster nut. The clutch cable is going through a holder attached to the triple clamp so you cannot remove it completely just lay it forward a little. You don't need a lot of room.

Turn the bars to the left. Here's where you need the special tool. The special tool needed to do this is a socket/pin wrench. It is a socket with pins sticking out the end that are what actually loosen the nuts in question. Loosen the locking nut with the pin wrench and remove it along with the washer below. Now turn the bars to the right and tighten the adjuster nut with the same pin wrench to 15 Nm. Put the washer on then the clamping nut on. Tighten the clamping nut to 50 Nm. Now put the upper triple clamp back into place. Be careful because the steering stem probably won't be perfectly aligned with the center hole. Jiggle the bike to get it started in the hole. Tap the triple down evenly with the palm of your hand or a soft mallet--gently. When fully seated put the washer back on and then the nut for the center triple tree. Tighten the nut to 120 Nm--be careful it is quite a bit of torque and it is best if you use a 6 point socket so that it fits good on the nut and does not mar it--it is aluminum and even if you use a 6 point quality tool it will probably leave some markings on it. Tighten the fork pinch bolts to 19 Nm. And attach the brake fluid reservoir back on to 8 Nm.

[moman]

Thanks for the information. I needed something to do at work today so using a cut off wheel I modified a 34mm socket I bought for my rear axle nut so it would also work on the steering stem nuts. Modified socket worked like a champ and I can now perform two tasks with one $16 socket. I've attached some pictures that follow the procedures for those who have yet to do this.

[moman]

And here is a closeup of the modified socket.

[Toynut]

BTW,
I would strongly recommend you place several layers of heavy towels or a folded furniture moving pad over your fuel tank as precautionary padding should the socket slip off the nut on you. It could help prevent major damage to your tank and bike finish.

[viperclaw]

Originally Posted by moman

And here is a closeup of the modified socket.

Nice tool. Wait! Did I say that out loud?

Couldn't resist. Nice job. Did it move any when you torqued it? The ones I've done have moved a few degrees--maybe 20 at most and usually about 10.

[moman]

Moved a little bit as I expected it would. Didn't make a note of how many degrees.

BTW protective coverings were removed for photo clarity

This ain't my first rodeo

[Mack]

Found these turbine sockets that may work for the BMW special tool, but what size?

Castellated Sockets for Turbine Maintenance Castellated Socket


Mack

[Mack]

Originally Posted by moman

And here is a closeup of the modified socket.

Okay, I made your tool up from a 34mm socket from CarQuest ($21) and a 4" squared-edged grinding disk ($3) in my bench grinder (Anyone ever dispute "The most dangerous tool in the shop is the bench grinder." Quoting my shop teacher.)

A couple of questions for moman:

1. What size are the tangs on yours?
I made mine 6mm wide and about 10mm tall. Socket wall thickness of each tang is 7mm. I figure I can always shorten the 10mm length a bit as the socket I bought has a bit of taper to the inside to slip on a nut. Yours looks to be maybe 8mm tall?

2. I placed the tangs at the thickest part of the six-sided socket (i.e. the 7mm dimension). Correct?
Trying to grind the interior thinner may be an issue for me if you placed yours at the thinnest part of the socket and mine are at the thickest part? (Hope that's clear?)


Fwiw, I bisected from the corners of the internal 6-sided hex with a caliper to mark the thicker area that I didn't want to grind and then allowed 3mm per side of that for the (6mm) tang itself. That gave me the proper 60 degree spacing for the six tangs. A straight flat file cleaned it all up.

A little spray paint and it looks pretty good for a $200 BMW 'Tiawanese' tool.


Mack

[moman]

Originally Posted by Mack

A couple of questions for moman:

1. What size are the tangs on yours?
I made mine 6mm wide and about 10mm tall. Socket wall thickness of each tang is 7mm. I figure I can always shorten the 10mm length a bit as the socket I bought has a bit of taper to the inside to slip on a nut. Yours looks to be maybe 8mm tall?

2. I placed the tangs at the thickest part of the six-sided socket (i.e. the 7mm dimension). Correct?
Trying to grind the interior thinner may be an issue for me if you placed yours at the thinnest part of the socket and mine are at the thickest part? (Hope that's clear?)




Mack

I didn't measure anything. I used the lock nut from the bike as a template. Centered the notches of the nut on the six points of the socket and marked the locations. Made the cuts and continued to enlarge until I had a snug fit.

[Nigel]

'Kin hell. Just checked the steering head bearing because I had a brake shudder on very light braking. Sure ennough, I problably rated the nut through 100 to 150 degrees before I got to the 15nm torque setting. I am unable to ride before I leave for Germany, but I would be Bob Newhart if it was not the bearings being too loose!! I bought the oficial BMW pin socket. It is about $80 and I was horified, bit after receiving it, it is one sturdy and fine piece of kit. Bloody awesomly made, beautifully machined. Value after all. Much better value that the oil filter wrench.

Nigel.