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Old 01-23-2012, 08:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ManfredH View Post
Where's the problem? Without brake calipers this should be easy. A time ago there was a bet in a German TV show where a guy with his girlfriend changed the front wheel while riding. Look here: Reifenwechsel während der Fahrt - YouTube
This is awesome
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by viperclaw View Post
Frank,

Do you have to tighten the pinch bolts for the axle? Your kit fits on the stock axle end?

Do the calipers mar the rim much this way? Probably doesn't matter too much for racing applications as teams will probably have at least two sets of rims or more.
Yes, you do need to loosen/tighten the pinch bolts, however on our endurance bikes we run the pinch bolt in just until it starts to put pressure on the axle and then safety wire in place, then we use a quick clip on the axle for safety.
It saves a lot of time not having to deal with the pinch bolt in an endurance race. For all other uses I would just tighten the pinch bolt.

The rims will eventually get marred up if you change it a lot, but if you change a lot they are going to get marred up anyway.

FF
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:35 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by markjenn View Post
Frank, it would be good if you could explain exactly what your "kit" does and where it is on your web site.

- Mark
As most of you know the stock axle nut/spacer protrudes through the fork leg about an inch, the protruding spacer makes it aggravating to get the wheel out and in even with the calipers off.
By making the sleeve nut flush with the fork leg and putting the spacer in the wheel, the wheel comes in and out much easier and opens up the door for the option to change the wheel without removing the brake calipers.

To change the wheel without removing the calipers you must bevel the edge of the brake pads (pic attached) and either remove or modify the front fender (pics attached) Once modified the fender will flex enough to get the wheel out and in with the calipers attached.

As another option I also make a pull cone for the front axle which is tig welded on, so you have something to grab and pull the axle out with.

From my website, click the "Online store" tab then click S1000rr parts to see all the s1000 stuff i have.

FF
Attached Thumbnails
30 Second Front wheel Change-brakes.jpg   30 Second Front wheel Change-ff1.jpg   30 Second Front wheel Change-ff2.jpg   30 Second Front wheel Change-ff3.jpg   30 Second Front wheel Change-s1000frontaxe.jpg  

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Last edited by fastfrank38; 01-24-2012 at 06:56 AM.
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Old 01-25-2012, 08:16 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Hey Frank

We used your front and rear setup for the Phillip Island 8 hour in December. Although the organisers decided to throw a spanner in the works by banning captive spacers. Luckily the front spacers on the S1000RR are captive anyway,in a manner of speaking..

Your kit served us well and made up for a few not so hot lap as we approached the end of the 50 min sessions!!

I don't quite get what your saying (earlier in the thread) about using a quick clip for the front axle? I would be really interested in learning more about that.

The only other thing I would add is is ther any plan to add a cone washer to the rear axle? It would help guide the rattle gun socket and of course provide something to grab hold of? I have a guy who is more than capable of knocking one up but he won't, because it's not his idea!!
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Old 01-25-2012, 08:22 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I was pretty interested in this until I saw the mods you have to do to the brake pads and the fender. To meet this is extensive and makes it out of the question, at least for me.


Jay Buchanan
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Old 01-25-2012, 08:43 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Brake pads are consumables and in many cases last a couple of months at the most.Whats the harm in taking a bit of meat off? None of the riders noticed a decrease in braking performance (not that you would at Phillip Island, it's ALL GAS!!).

For the fender we just knocked up a cheap pattern fender with some dzus quick release fasteners. Total cost 60 bucks.

You either see the point of this stuff or you don't but for me be able to chuck in a set of wets at the very last moment really justifies the expense of a spare set of rims. For endurance racing it's simply essential.
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:07 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I get the need for endurance racing or even in the PNW where the weather changes so much you are often changing tires to wets with a few minutes notice before going out to grid up. IMHO, the mods make it too much for a street bike and since my bike is 50/50 street/track I will pass. If you didn't have to do the mods, I would be all over it.
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:12 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kowalski View Post
Hey Frank

We used your front and rear setup for the Phillip Island 8 hour in December. Although the organisers decided to throw a spanner in the works by banning captive spacers. Luckily the front spacers on the S1000RR are captive anyway,in a manner of speaking..

Your kit served us well and made up for a few not so hot lap as we approached the end of the 50 min sessions!!

I don't quite get what your saying (earlier in the thread) about using a quick clip for the front axle? I would be really interested in learning more about that.

The only other thing I would add is is ther any plan to add a cone washer to the rear axle? It would help guide the rattle gun socket and of course provide something to grab hold of? I have a guy who is more than capable of knocking one up but he won't, because it's not his idea!!
Glad to hear it worked for you. I attached a pic of a rear axle with a quick clip (same principle) its just a safety thing in the axle didn't get tight enough for some reason.
I do make pull cones now, they are 35.00, I will be machining a batch later today and can ship tomorrow.
Attached Thumbnails
30 Second Front wheel Change-saxlecone2.jpg   30 Second Front wheel Change-quickclip.jpg  
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:15 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by JBuchanan View Post
I was pretty interested in this until I saw the mods you have to do to the brake pads and the fender. To meet this is extensive and makes it out of the question, at least for me.


Jay Buchanan
Hi Jay, the mod to the brake pads is a very minor thing and can be done with a coarse file.
You can always just remove the fender when changing wheels.
Obviously this kit is not for everyone, but if you race or do a lot of track days it can be a big benefit.

Frank
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:55 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by fastfrank38 View Post
Hi Jay, the mod to the brake pads is a very minor thing and can be done with a coarse file.
You can always just remove the fender when changing wheels.
Obviously this kit is not for everyone, but if you race or do a lot of track days it can be a big benefit.

Frank
Plus it looks sweet!!

Even if you don't go the whole hog and modify the fender and pads, the kit still seriously speeds up wheel changes.

Frank, I'm all over that rear cone and will be in touch. But I still not 100% on the quick clip thing. We decided to forego the nappy pin (quick clip??) on the rear axle because a) they are a wee bit chicken **** and b) the swing arm itself is in compression so would act as a sprung washer. The front axle will tend to tighten itself which, now when I think of it, would be very useful in an endurance race
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