My new Sun Yellow S1kRR

[Mick s1krr]

After a couple of years with a GS12 I needed to put some excitement back into my biking life, so went to my local BMW dealer and did the deal.

And as you all will know' it definitely put the excitement back into riding

[yangins]

Nice color Chioce and Congrat on getting the best bike!

[Sprocket]

what are those light on the mirror arm?? led as front turn signals??

[awelch85]

Did the cat come painted black?
Congrats on the purchase

[shavkatsi12]

Congrats!!! Nice bike and great color (mine is yellow too )!!! I see you've got HIDs and white LEDs in... nice...

[Mick s1krr]

Thanks the responses guys appreciate you taking the time.

I sprayed the Cat black myself the day after picking her up, I used standard very high temp spray, very easy mod and keeps it looking nice.

The additional LED's under the mirrors are just running lights super bright LEDS, the ones in the lenses are the 28 SMD LED type, very very bright and pretty cheap too.

I have worked out a fool proof tip for getting the LEDS working without f'lamp warning issues, or LEDS staying on after the ignition has been turned off, as I suffered from both initially.

Like I have said, I hade the normal issues when fitting LEDS with the canbus system and f'lamp failure light and LEDS staying on afterwards.

I purchased some pre-wired resistors off ebay, but these run very hot they are supposed to, but can, and will damage plasics and wiring so not really a safe wrokable option.

Out of the resitors kit i created a fool proof and safe way to get LED working perfectly.

The LEDs stay on because the canbus system keeps a little power in the wiring, not enough to make a bulb work but more than enough to light a LED, and equally the LED does not pull enough power to stop the bulb failure light working.

This is what to do. (or what I have done safely) basically I cut the resitor out of the middle of the purchased wire and used the T10 or (501) or W5W bulb holder from this to make my system work.

I wired this now spare bulb holder into the original bulb holder for the bikes side light (just in the main headlamp) side, you don't need to do both sides.

I then fitted the LEDS into the genuine bulb holders and put them into the lamps. then with the additional bulb holder now wired in, place a normal bulb in and leave this loose behind the lamp element,
I used a 12v 3w 501 as these run pretty cool and won't cause any damage, but pull enough power to make the canbus work perfectly along with the LEDS both in the headlamp and the extra ones under the mirrors.

Hope this helps you out, and hope you can understand my explanation

[3blueS1000rr]

So what yu are saying is that one normal bulb (in the side light wiring is enough resistance to fool the can bus )....that would equal about 28=30 ohms on a hot 12v dc 5w bulb...i might just nip to the shop tomorrow and get a 30 ohm resistor and try that in one side instead of the bulb holder method, then find a small aluminium block and drill a hole thru it to take the resistor to act as a heat sink..your thoughts please.

P.S i think you`re bulb will get pretty hot too, it will and can melt plastic it comes into contact with...better heat sink it m8..

[Mbwanderski]

It's a beautiful bike. I had the hardest time deciding between the yellow one (and adding yellow LEDs) or the thunder grey (and adding blue LEDs). As u can see, I made my decision, but it wasn't easy!

Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app

[Mick s1krr]

Without doubt the thunder grey and blue looks brilliant mate, the 2 together would make a nice photo

Yes you pretty much got it, the bulb in one side does provide enough resistance.

I did go down the resistor route first, one in each side but they got so so hot, and I was not confident that I could desperse the heat, equally I could not find a place or should I say anywhere practical on the RR to fit the the resitor that would not cause damage.(they were already enclosed in a heat sink block) but still they got seriously hot.

I am not an electrician so please forgive my ignorance and lack of techinical knowledge, you completely lost me on the ohms, but one 12v (3W) certainly provides enough resistance to fool the system, and it was as simple to do as fit an extra bulb holder to the existing plug.

This 3w bulb does not get anywhere near as hot as the resistors (I previously tried) the headlamp refractor is designed to take bulb heat so by positioning the bulb on this (there is a gap were the sidelight entry hole is and the refractor just right for this) when installed removes the risk of heat damage to plastics and wiring, after 380 miles of use since the mod there is no sign of damage not even dis'colourment.

Thanks

Mick