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Old 12-08-2010, 04:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Bleeding the Brakes - How To

Nope... don't have the "how to"... that's what I'm hoping one of you can do

If anyone has done the S1000RR and wouldn't mind posting up some instructions, it'd be greatly appreciated (at least by me... but likely others too).

I personally haven't done it before, and plan to start w/giving it a whirl on my R6 Track Bike... then I'll move on to the S1000RR. I've got one of these ordered from TJ at Rider's Discount --> Mityvac Brake Bleeder Kits

Looking for instructions and any tips/tricks you've learned along the way.

If we can put together a good "how to", I'll post it up over in that section of the Board.
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Old 12-08-2010, 05:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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An "end all be all" bleeding how to. Great idea.
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Old 12-08-2010, 06:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000RR View Post
Nope... don't have the "how to"... that's what I'm hoping one of you can do

If anyone has done the S1000RR and wouldn't mind posting up some instructions, it'd be greatly appreciated (at least by me... but likely others too).

I personally haven't done it before, and plan to start w/giving it a whirl on my R6 Track Bike... then I'll move on to the S1000RR. I've got one of these ordered from TJ at Rider's Discount --> Mityvac Brake Bleeder Kits

Looking for instructions and any tips/tricks you've learned along the way.

If we can put together a good "how to", I'll post it up over in that section of the Board.
I've tried the MityVac on my other BMW and it managed to suck a lot of air into the system around the nipple once cracked. I ended up with no brake lever action at all, which entailed a whole lot of bleeding exercises after that to get the lever back. Even the Mini-Stan funnel wouldn't fit into the ABS unit on mine as it hit the frame. Someone suggested using a thick silicon vacuum grease around the nipple before cracking it with the MityVac. Never tried it as that bike has a dozen bleeders to crack. All I know was I had a very spongy lever afterward since that bike has the GT has two chambers to bleed (the master and the ABS unit too) and another pair for the rear too. That servo-assist BMW GT is a real big PITA to do every two-years. Takes about a quart of fluid too.

I suspect a pressurized-style bleeder is the better route overall. I don't know which model although Sears, Harbor Freight, et al. sell one with a reservoir with the brake fluid in it. Just monkey-rigging it to the bike is the issue. Maybe feeding "bottom up" is the better way rather than going "top down" after a few initial pumps off the bottom to get rid of the old gunk down below?


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Old 12-08-2010, 07:06 PM   #4 (permalink)
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For me...bikes are just too easy to bleed the regular way without a pressure bleader.

Open the valve, squeeze the lever, close the valve, release the lever.

What I am curious about is if there is anything different with the ABS of the S1000RR that must be done or is it as simple as all of my previous bikes were?
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Old 12-08-2010, 09:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 2000750 View Post
For me...bikes are just too easy to bleed the regular way without a pressure bleader.

Open the valve, squeeze the lever, close the valve, release the lever.

What I am curious about is if there is anything different with the ABS of the S1000RR that must be done or is it as simple as all of my previous bikes were?
I'm not sure how you guys do it but for me it's,

squeeze mutliple times(until pressure is hard), hold in brake lever, crack bolt(as little as possible), wait for bubbles(for flow to slow), close bolt/valve(DO NOT RELEASE BRAKE, this will suck air back in), release lever, repeat,

all though, this is much simpiler with a one-way bleed valve between two pieces of bleed tubing that way all you do is keep squeezing with the valve open and stop when the bubbles stop or until the oil needs to be refilled.
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Old 12-08-2010, 09:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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invest $15 on speed bleeders. Very simple and work great.
Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder
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Old 12-08-2010, 10:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Last time I looked on the Speedbleeders website, the S1000RR wasn't on their list.

You got the numbers for the correct ones?


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Old 12-09-2010, 08:34 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mack View Post

I suspect a pressurized-style bleeder is the better route overall. I don't know which model although Sears, Harbor Freight, et al. sell one with a reservoir with the brake fluid in it. Just monkey-rigging it to the bike is the issue.


Mack
I use a large syringe I bought at a cooking store with a piece of tubing on the end for cars and bikes with simple non-ABS braking systems - easier to push the air up to the MC than to vacuum it out. Just fill the syringe with clean fluid, attach the hose to the bleeder, open the bleeder, and inject. Cost about $4. Not sure about doing this on the RR with the ABS pump.
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Old 12-09-2010, 11:49 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UberXY View Post
I use a large syringe I bought at a cooking store with a piece of tubing on the end for cars and bikes with simple non-ABS braking systems - easier to push the air up to the MC than to vacuum it out. Just fill the syringe with clean fluid, attach the hose to the bleeder, open the bleeder, and inject. Cost about $4. Not sure about doing this on the RR with the ABS pump.
Agreed and I two think there would be issues with doing this on an ABS model considering the lines from the calipers goes straight under the seat.
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Old 12-09-2010, 12:31 PM   #10 (permalink)
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i hate bleeding brakes its the bane of my life.....

its pretty much all that squeeze squeeze crack close squeeze fnaffleee..

abs units dont get air in unless ur a twat and pump air in and leave brake lines to drain downwards always lift up your brake lines if u take calipers off....and then they have nipples to but its a bit trickier with them depending on where the nipple is n how it works bosch are ok as far as i recall.....

the main problem with bikes is the routing of brake lines front brakes are generally alright ish especially ours it has a nipple on the master cylinder there amazing lil nissin units those...

but back brakes where a part of the line or master cylinder is higher than the nipple on the caliper there a **** bandits are fookin awfull....

in some cases its eiser to take off hole systems and hang them top to bottom or bottom to top n do it off the bike....

and a neat lil trick to get tiny bubles out of a system is to cable tie or velcro strap up ur front brake over night get all the micro bubles out, dunno how does tho....not to tight...

thas my to pence...
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