Sump oil leak or leftover oil? - BMW S1000RR Forums: BMW Sportbike Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
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Sump oil leak or leftover oil?

I was preparing to change oil on my new 2016 and came across some oil in the pan area. The bike has 1k miles and already had it's 600mi service done. It's a track only bike and has had 4 hard track days since its first service. It appears oil is leaking from one of the screws on the pan based on the stains, but could also be coming from the top--or if I'm lucky it was just leftover oil from last oil change. There was no oil on the belly fairing.

Here are some pics, insight appreciated.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 11:53 PM
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My vote is 100% leak.
Edit.

Something is not sealing properly. Mine is always free of the tell-tale debris clinging $hit on your pan. Certainly never any plain oil under the pan either.

Simple fix. Clean all that crap off, really good, change out the oil, let it idle for 10 minutes or so. Shut it off, and let it sit for 30 minutes, without moving it.

Do a follow-up visual inspection.
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Last edited by 5150 Pops; 05-19-2017 at 12:00 AM.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
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My vote is 100% leak.
Looks like you found the source in pic 1.
Thanks Pops, could it just be that #12 screw is loose and I can tighten to spec (3 NM + 90* turn) or take to dealer for warranty repair?
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 12:01 AM
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Thanks Pops, could it just be that #12 screw is loose and I can tighten to spec (3 NM + 90* turn) or take to dealer for warranty repair?
I've amended my post, please review.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 12:26 AM
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Thanks Pops, could it just be that #12 screw is loose and I can tighten to spec (3 NM + 90* turn) or take to dealer for warranty repair?
Do not torque that bolt or any for that matter on the oil pan. That is a torque to yield bolt. It should have been torqued at the factory with an automatic gun. If you touch that screw and strip out the threads in the block, or break off the bolt, there will be no warranty on that with the dealer.

you can clean it all off really good however. attempt to run it sitting still long enough for the oil to heat up really good. Check for easy to find leaks, and take to dealer to deal with. That low of miles and if there is a leak, that is really bad. Somethings did not get torque right or the auto torque process was bad at the factory.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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Update: I think I know what was causing the oil leak, and luckily it's not the pan or crack in the engine case. I was searching on the forum on oil leaks and came across a couple of threads where case covers were not torqued right. I have T-Rex covers on crankcase and clutch, and sure enough one of the bolts on the left cover was very loose. There was oil on the bottom of the cover and around casing, not a lot but enough where I could feel it. My theory is it dripped down from there and collected at the oil pan screw. I torqued everything to T-Rex's specs when I installed them (don't think I used loctite though). I'm rethinking the idea of case covers, seems to just cause problems.

I tightened all the case cover bolts and cleaned up oil with contact cleaner, going to ride around and see if that fixes the problem.

If it was from the case cover and a loose bolt, do I have to remove the cover and reseal with gasket maker, buy new aluminum bolts, etc?
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 12:30 PM
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Update: I think I know what was causing the oil leak, and luckily it's not the pan or crack in the engine case. I was searching on the forum on oil leaks and came across a couple of threads where case covers were not torqued right. I have T-Rex covers on crankcase and clutch, and sure enough one of the bolts on the left cover was very loose. There was oil on the bottom of the cover and around casing, not a lot but enough where I could feel it. My theory is it dripped down from there and collected at the oil pan screw. I torqued everything to T-Rex's specs when I installed them (don't think I used loctite though). I'm rethinking the idea of case covers, seems to just cause problems.

I tightened all the case cover bolts and cleaned up oil with contact cleaner, going to ride around and see if that fixes the problem.

If it was from the case cover and a loose bolt, do I have to remove the cover and reseal with gasket maker, buy new aluminum bolts, etc?
Well great idea retracing your steps...
Did you remove the cover before installing the slider? Why would you have to now if you didn't before?

It's all on you, but if it were me, I would not want to keep effin around with a leak. So retrace your steps, and make it right.
If you didn't use blue loctite on the (hopefully supplied screws from T-Rex) then apply some.
As your "neighbor" 388 said, get new aluminum screws, don't reuse re-tighten the ones you have now, unless you feel lucky, which it sure doesn't appear much of that is present, other than you found the leak, before crashing due to it.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Well great idea retracing your steps...
Did you remove the cover before installing the slider? Why would you have to now if you didn't before?

It's all on you, but if it were me, I would not want to keep effin around with a leak. So retrace your steps, and make it right.
If you didn't use blue loctite on the (hopefully supplied screws from T-Rex) then apply some.
As your "neighbor" 388 said, get new aluminum screws, don't reuse re-tighten the ones you have now, unless you feel lucky, which it sure doesn't appear much of that is present, other than you found the leak, before crashing due to it.
I didn't remove the cover before, just installed protector over it, but if the seal is compromised, didn't know if the correct procedure is to remove, clean, and replace (like in golf). I just ordered some new screws (they're $3.50 each btw) and will be taking the protector off permanently. Anyone want a t-rex crank case cover?
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-24-2017, 08:50 PM
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I didn't remove the cover before, just installed protector over it, but if the seal is compromised, didn't know if the correct procedure is to remove, clean, and replace (like in golf). I just ordered some new screws (they're $3.50 each btw) and will be taking the protector off permanently. Anyone want a t-rex crank case cover?
Are you sure about this? I checked in because I have never had my engine not leak. It was the sliders from BMW, then something else. I just took off the fairing and ran it. Let it sit for two days and there is oil around the same spot that you show. And NO WHERE ELSE. It is leaking out of that rivet-plug(?) next to the torx bolt.

Anyone know if this is DIY fixable? The damn dealer never fixed it, so I don't trust them at all. Is that a manufacturing plug that can be sealed? It appears that the whole exhaust may have to be removed to access that part. Ugh.

Last edited by clutchslip; 05-24-2017 at 08:53 PM.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 12:15 AM Thread Starter
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Are you sure about this? I checked in because I have never had my engine not leak. It was the sliders from BMW, then something else. I just took off the fairing and ran it. Let it sit for two days and there is oil around the same spot that you show. And NO WHERE ELSE. It is leaking out of that rivet-plug(?) next to the torx bolt.

Anyone know if this is DIY fixable? The damn dealer never fixed it, so I don't trust them at all. Is that a manufacturing plug that can be sealed? It appears that the whole exhaust may have to be removed to access that part. Ugh.
After reading your post you made me think and I'm glad you did! So I cleaned out that bolt and sump area with contact cleaner, got it spotless and took some pictures. The first picture is that bolt freshly cleaned. Then I ran engine for 5 minutes, let sit for 10; took another picture and bingo! There's definitely fresh oil coming out of that bolt. So I take back what I said about my t-rex case covers, they are not to blame.

The service manual calls for M6x35 aluminum bolts for the sump, the kind you replace after each use. Luckily, that bolt is fully accessible without having to remove exhaust as you can see in 3rd pic (I would use a torque wrench not t-handle).

My question to the group is, should I buy a new m6x35 and replace bolt myself or take to dealer? This is a 2016 dedicated track bike with 1k miles. And if this is a common issue do we have a recall situation? Anyone else seeing oil there?

Calling @bennymx for his advice..
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