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Shift Assistant Pro Issues

11K views 19 replies 13 participants last post by  NOLA 
#1 ·
This is a fairly narrow question. It applies only to 2015 or later S1000RR's with a factory quick shifter.

At the track yesterday my bike would not go into 5th using the quick shifter and full or near full throttle. Occasionally it wouldn't go into 4th. I was operating it exactly as I have for the last 2,000 miles at the track. If I chopped the throttle, I could quick shift. Of course, it wasn't very quick because I was chopping the throttle. If I rode slowly at part throttle it would quick shift through all gears. Occasionally the shifter went numb on downshifts and would do nothing without the clutch. For those who like to cover the obvious, no I don't want to solve the problem by using the clutch. I have a quick shifter for a reason.

I could not get the problem resolved while at the track. I can't readily take it to the dealer as the local one closed and the next one is two hours away. Researching on the forum I noted that others have said that the clutch lever on the 2015 and up bikes can sometimes interfere with the quick shifter. I have the factory clutch lever. I took a look at the microswitch on the clutch lever and noted that there are actually two strips of metal that operate like springs and actuators on two individual microswitches in one housing. One is directly on top of the other. The component is shown in the diagram below.

I noticed that the metal strip on the bottom microswitch on my bike has a bend in the middle, while the top one does not. I can't tell for certain from the parts diagram below whether the bottom one is supposed to have a bend. It doesn't seem to. It is not really practical to straighten it out and then go out in town and see if it is fixed. We are talking about a problem that only comes up in excess of 160 mph and I don't have a dyno. Does anyone happen to know if the bottom metal strip on the microswitch is supposed to have a bend in it?

Thanks
 

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#2 ·
No. No bends on either. If it is bent it will not actuate correctly. Also at high speeds if the clutch freeplay is too loose then the wind pushes the lever in just enough to actuate the switch and cancel cruise control out and also stop the quickshifter from working. You can straighten them. But if it's buggered then replacing it will be the best idea. Also make sure clutch freeplay is correct and the lever is not being pushed in by the wind. It happens more on the track due to high speeds.
 
#5 ·
After you get the switch squared away and make sure the clutch free play is correct and see how it is working -

My RR has just under 5K miles on it - and on occasion it does not downshift - in my case 100% certain a lazy shift on my part. But when I am looking for that shift - and it doesn't go - the shifter feels like there is nothing there - I have to grab the clutch lever to make the downshift.

Happens to me maybe once every few track days - maybe my foot was not lined up - I didn't apply enough pressure - but when I make a deliberate firm shift it works perfectly. Never had an issue upshifting.
 
#7 · (Edited)
I have done the lazy shift thing before. This was not it. Trust me after a number of laps of getting caught at the end of the long straight my shifting was highly motivated and very intentional. The downshifting issue was also different from what I had experienced before. The shifter itself felt different. Almost like it wasn't fully connected. It was only occasional, but very disconcerting. I checked and tightened every nut and bolt. It had something to do with the electronics.
 
#8 ·
I've experienced this primarily in 4th gear, but it seems like nearly a daily occurrence for me, it's been happening since I started using the quickshift, just a few weeks into owning it.
I do blame myself alot for a lazy shift, but there are times when I know it should have worked.
 
#9 ·
I'll bet you've replaced your clutch lever...because that's how I bent mine, and researching this site found the same issue. They are both flat.

Your issue is with downshift, correct? I remember reading in the manual the the downshift won't function unless the throttle is FULLY closed and the clutch is not touched....correct me if I'm wrong...
 
#11 ·
Your issue is with downshift, correct? I remember reading in the manual the the downshift won't function unless the throttle is FULLY closed and the clutch is not touched....correct me if I'm wrong...
I should have also mentioned that my downshift works perfectly at a steady state throttle. I can't speak for others. There is a spot on my home track where I downshift under steady throttle to get ready to drive out of a corner and have been impressed that the bike is not unsettled at all. It maintains the same speed, the revs just go up.

This involved more thought on my 2013, which did not have auto-blip downshifting.
 
#10 ·
No, I hadn't replaced it. It was the OEM lever. I had previously adjusted the cable to take slack out. The primary problem was on the upshift to fifth, not downshifting.

Although it is interesting that you mention bending it changing the lever. After getting the confirmation above that both should be straight, I took the lever off and made sure that both were perfectly straight. As I was putting it back on I noticed that the lever was beginning to bend the strip that I had just straightened. I pulled it back and slightly revised the angle that I was approaching it with. If I had kept going the first time, I do believe that I would have bent it worse than it was before I started.
 
#16 ·
I recently developed this problem with my XR. I read on another forum the cause could be a faulty microswitch. I disassembled mine, removed switch, cleaned all the contact points with cleaning solution laced Q-tips and dried it with compressed air immediately after cleaning. Reinstalled microswitch and lever assembly. Took it for ride today and everything worked as new. Even got my cruise control back, which is affected by the switch. I can only conclude since the switch and wires are exposed to road grit, grime and moisture, over time the switch needs an inspection and cleaning.

Upon removal of the microswitch, I also noticed at factory install, some excess wire for that assembly was too long and was zip tied to the handlebar tightly with a bad kink. I re-laid the wire and zip tied without the harsh kink.
 
#17 ·
Silly question...

Do you have access to a GS-911? If so, you are able to verify the activation of the microswitches using the GS-911 diagnostic tool.

Which leads me to my next question. Have you reset the transmission adaptations and run through the transmission re-calibration process?

Might be something conflicting with your adaptation values that it throwing things out
 
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