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Autoblipper frustration

19K views 30 replies 18 participants last post by  Ravenbravo 
#1 ·
Hey guys, I've been dealing with this for a while and I've mentioned it a couple times but it's not smoothing out so its time to figure out if I e got a problem or if the auto blipper just isn't that good. Here's the problem, sometimes it works great, sometimes it takes way more pressure than it should to get the blipper to blip, and sometimes it jus plain won't work at all no matter how much pressure I put on the lever. Not knowing how it's going to behave is sketchy. I've come into a turn fairly hot on more than one occasion, and the blipper refused to downshift and I'm stuck a gear to high on turn in. Almost as bad as a False neutral. No way I could use it on track for fear of being left hanging.
Things I've checked, I checked the clutch switches, I've made sure the throttle is completely rolled off when trying the blipper. Not sure what else to try. Do you think there is a problem with my shifter or is this just the way it is?
 
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#2 ·
I've ridden 4 different RRs and an XR, never had the sort of issue you're talking about. Are you sure there is absolutely no pressure on the gear lever between shifts? Like you foot resting on the lever slightly anticipating the downshift? I rode one of the RRs on track without a problem, but I'm always on my toes on the pegs and only go to the shifter when I need to use it.

If it fails to downshift, can't you just grab the clutch and do it manually? The slipper works great.
 
#3 ·
I have 6,000 miles all track on my 2015 using autoblipper. It works perfectly as long as their is zero throttle input. Aka throttle completely closed. The shifting is much smoother and shorter than the 2016 zx10. When you go back out on the bike make sure the throttle is completely closed before shifting. If you still have an issue take it to the dealer because their is a problem


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#4 ·
Thanks for the feedback. I will try to pay close attention next time I'm out but based on your comments I think I'll take her in.
 
#7 ·
Did you change the clutch lever to an after market option? If yes try to see if there is the pin under the clutch lever that tells the bike the position of the clutch lever.

Did you try to manual reset the quick-shifter? If not you put it on a back stand, than go through the gears from 1st to 6th and waiting 10 seconds between each quick shift.
 
#8 ·
. . . I've made sure the throttle is completely rolled off when trying the blipper.
The throttle does not need to be closed on downshifts (see the manual), but you do need to make certain that you keep the throttle position steady when you downshift (or upshift for that matter).

In fact, I find partially open throttle downshifts quicker and smoother than closed throttle, although closed throttle sounds more amusing. Upshifts of course require open throttle.

The system does not work well when the RPM is high, especially approaching redline, but your situation does not appear to involve particularly high RPM.
 
#9 ·
My experience mirror's the OP's, but for me, the only time the downshift works well is over 6k rpm, and better with more rpm's, and when ridden hard. Seems a little glitchy. If there's an aftermarket one that works better I might try that after the warranty is over.

The upshift works great when ridden hard, a little jerky when trying to ride in town. For in town, I just use the clutch like a manual bike.
 
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#26 ·
What he said. For me it definitely seems smoother with higher RPM's, but overall I don't have trouble. A missed shift here or there. As I wear in the bike more it seems to be getting better. I manually shift a good bit during my commute, probably 40% of the time. Less on canyons.

I also recall hearing somewhere that if your chain slack isn't adjusted correctly it will cause some problems with the quick shifter (I think too tight more so than too loose). Chain slack does seem to affect the quick shift for me but I could just be noticing slight differences in handling with a tight vs loose chain and attributing it to that. Maybe give it a shot?
 
#10 ·
Mine works great under all circumstances, light throttle, WOT, low RPM, high RPM. I have never adjusted it or done anything special. I wish I knew why mine works well as I would be delighted to share so others have the same experience.

My guess is there is some finicky adjustment that when just right makes everything work well.And getting it right is a matter of luck as much as anything.
 
#11 ·
Mine has worked fine. 6000km. But has just started to do the same thing but only has done it 2x.

If it continues to play up, then the dealer will be getting a visit.

Funny though the second time it played up. I stopped and shut bike down. From the restart it gave me no trouble.
 
#13 ·
Great, we are talking more about this QS problem.

Have you changed or disconnected the bikes battery, I spoke with a salesman who is studying engineering today at my dealer, he seems very clever indeed. He said that disconnecting the battery can lead to the QS needing to be re-taught.

Sometimes on down shifts I get a blip and no change. its so stupid. I have been left hanging in a corner coming in hot as well, and hate that. Hopefully on monday the 6th when mine goes in for a few issues they fix it by re-learning the QS.

Our bikes are so close to perfection.

we will get there and then BMW will bring out a newer better bike. lol

0:)
 
#14 ·
I believe it is a question of getting the shift rod centered, the clutch lever properly adjusted (free play spec is only 0.5mm - 1.0mm), run the relearn, and keeping your foot away from the shift lever except for making crisp, decisive shift inputs.

Quick shifters have been around for several years. I have trouble accepting BMW completely blew it in their implementation.
 
#16 ·
Is the relearn function something that is done with the gs911?

I have not had the shifter arm replaced yet, but I have had the shifter rod replaced. And I have disconnected the battery but this issue has been going on since day 1. Levers are Pazzos but I have very carefully checked the clutch cable free play and the switch function and all seems to be good there.

I'm thinking the relearn might be the ticket. Is there a description of the best way to teach the ecu and how long it takes? I'm getting ready to leave on a two day, overnight ride and wondering if I should try it before I go or wait to be safe.
 
#18 ·
Is the relearn function something that is done with the gs911?
Start the engine with the transmission in neutral and allow the engine to idle for ten seconds.

Then drive the rear wheel in each gear for at least ten seconds, shifting gears in the usual way, in other words by disengaging the clutch. Take suitable measures lo allow the rear wheel to run safely.

Then switch the ignition off for at least ten seconds to save the new adaptation values.

Then check that shift indicator or gearshift assistant is operating correctly.
 
#22 ·
Just back from my trip so going to give this a try. Anyone know if this procedure works to calibrate both up and down shifts? Does it adjust the cut times? Mine seems WAY too long.. Could almost shift quicker without it.. Almost!
 
#23 ·
since we are on the blipper topic I tested mine out this week and noticed I get lots of quick exhaust pops at the momentary transition in between gears before engine braking starts... sounds cool as hell but is it normal?
 
#25 ·
Really curious to know more about this. Like what exactly is the ecu adjusting during the learn process.
 
#29 ·
Just talked to the service department at the local dealer (Sierra Bmw). He had no idea what I was talking about when I asked him about the relearn process for the shift assistant. Certainly not confidence inspiring. Also had no idea when I asked him about the upcoming instrument cluster repair or recall. You would think if this was your career you would know more than the general populace of an Internet forum.
 
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