I have the 2015 s1krr, and recently it's been having problems downshiting. I've read a few other threads in regards to this saying make sure the throttle is fully closed, and others saying it doesn't matter. Today I made sure it was fully closed, but it still wouldn't downshift no matter how much pressure I used. When this happens I can use the clutch, and it will downshift that stuck gear. Most of the time it happens from 6th to 5th. Is there an easy fix to this, or should I not worry about it. I'm going to my dealership tomorrow to pick up tires, and was wondering if I should mention it to them.
P.S. If I missed a thread regarding this topic please give me a link to it. Thanks for the help.
There is no way. At track/race pace I MUST close throttle completely for the downshift to operate properly. I found downshifts not engaging at the end of the long straight because my grip had the throttle ever so slightly open when hammering the brakes. Adjusting this to make sure throttle was completely closed fixed all issues.
I find the downshifter to work on all throttle positions (as the manual states), and to work more smoothly with some throttle. This makes sense as this keeps everything spooled up a bit.
On the track or aggressive streetriding, I want closed throttle however as I am braking hard and do not want the engine providing and forward drive. The quickshifter works fine in these circumstances, but is slower to respond, and requires a firmer and longer push on the shifter.
It appears the quickshifter is very fussy to adjustment and perhaps other variables.
Really! I think your just showing your massive lack of understanding how the system actually works.
The downshift blipper just commands a throttle % do you not agree?
Therefore why does it matter where the commanded throttle is prior to the ECU commanding the required actual throttle position to unload the engine and accommodate a shift with the aid of the slipper clutch.
Here it is working at full throttle. If it wasn't ignoring my throttle input there is no way it would shift under maximum load. Doing it you can feel the ecu roll off the throttle.
This is my experience as well; the quickshifter simply sets throttle at the correct setting for the next lower gear at the speed you are going. The blip goes to the same position each time for a given gear and speed, but whether the change from the current throttle setting is big or small depends on where you are holding the throttle when the system is invoked. While simple, it still is pretty neat.
You are not going to hurt the engine by holding the throttle open when invoking the downshifter unless the lower gear places the engine at over redline. My guess is the downshifter will not work under these circumstances, but I am sure not going to try it.
Yep your right Elk. It's actually written somewhere the max revs the down blipper will work to try to prevent an over rev situation.
Glad you get how the system works. I've been trying to no end to explain to people how it works and really how simple a system it is
I was with a mate test riding an s1000xr recently. Sales rep said the same thing to my mate about fully closing the throttle. It was a face palm moment for me
I think the confusion revolves around some being under the impression that it always applies a certain amount of extra throttle on top of where the throttle is set when the shift is commanded. Clearly the system doesn't work that way and I have no idea who or why that rumour was started.
All the down shifter needs is a steady throttle. Open or closed, part or full it does not care. Mine works 90% of the time. 9% of the time i get lazy and forget to actually push it all the way. 1% of the time i think hmm that didnt seem right.
macca, all due respect but I am pretty sure I am riding my bike a little harder than you.
I am very happy for you that you know how the downshift blipper works. It really isn't rocket science.
I am telling you 100%, on my bike, at the pace I was running, the downshift blipping would absolutely NOT work with any throttle input when shifting down to 2nd gear from 6th at an indicated 175 mph.
I still do not see why anyone would use the downshift with the throttle wide open. Must be a down under thing.
Will it make any shifts at all, such as sixth to fifth at this speed?
Does it work for you at slower speeds?
I've used it plenty of times well over 100 MPH and at high RPM with no issue as to throttle. As noted above, throttle does need to be steady however. Thus, I am surprised you have experienced a problem.
In any event, I expect a polished racer not to use it as they can perform a quicker downshift without it.
Polished racer no way. I am far from fast but getting there 1 second at a time.
The blipper is actually pretty damn good. I enjoy the extra attention I can place on brakes and markers than worrying about clutching through the gearbox.
This is exactly why I like it. The quickshifter and slipper allow me to forget about the transmission.
I do wonder why our bikes respond differently. I continue to suspect an adjustment issue, but we may simply use it just differently enough. The next generation quickshifter will be that much better.
Maybe the blipper only working when the throttle is fully closed is like those bikes that veer right. Maybe it's related. Maybe we should start a thread about it. Maybe z00 will investigate this for us. I guess some are just defective. Guess I got lucky.
Z00 does not downshift, always in red line chasing choppers >
What worked best for me with clutchless shifting:
Upshifts: 1-6 gear with increasing throttle (linear increase of throttle input and up shifting). Important part is to shift firmly (on shifter), if it's a light touch QS won't respond well.
Downshift: 6-3, can be done with with throttle off, but it's not the smoothest. For smoothest downshifts I find 5-10% steady throttle input. Also, a firm press on the shifter. Auto blipper works well. It can always be turned off in menu if needed.
For 3-1 downshifts I use the clutch. I get smoother shifts that way.
-BTW some gear boxes have issues out of the factory. I had 30miles on the bike and my shifter rod was defective. My dealership did the first PUMA on it, and replaced it. Master tech said he never seen anything like that before. But glad BMW resolved the issue quickly. I love the shifting on RR, very smooth once issues are resolved and one knows how to use it. On the track it is helpful not having to worry about rev matching and the clutch lever. More time to focus on my screwed up lines.
Ok so I just got my bike a few weeks ago and when I first got it, to upshift I had to be on the throttle and to downshift I had to be 100% off the throttle. As of yesterday I can up and downshift at anytime. I can upshot with no throttle at all and I can downshift while rolling on the throttle. I thought that something must have broken but now after reading all this I don't know. Im taking it in for the 600mile service next week so I'll ask them. It does make me feel a little better that some peoples bikes are the way mine is now but do think that it was smoother before the it is now.
Your forcing the box to shift up if you don't have any throttle applied.
The quick shifter for up changes "ONLY" cuts ignition to remove engine load from the box. If your off the gas there is no load and therefore nothing for it to remove to accommodate the shift.
I find even at partial throttle it's better to use the clutch, ie steady speed or decelerating. I therefore only use the up quick shifter when accelerating.
For downshifts. Do it whenever as it commands throttle to achieve the unloading requirement and therefore doesn't care where the rider is commanding the throttle
It probably just broke in more, giving you more leeway. They said not to worry about it getting stuck or acting funny every now and again, because it's too hard to test if anything is wrong. Just remember if it's giving you any trouble you can go old school and use the clutch.
Unless the original shift arm is slipping, the new arm is not going to affect how the quickshifter works - especially not its response to throttle application.
It is odd that the manual specifies quickshifter downshifts can be made at all throttle positions, which many of us experience, but some report it only works with the throttle closed.
My only change was to install HP rearsets. No changes were made to the geometry or the quickshifter linkage.
It also occurs to me that changing the clutch lever can create issues, but I imagine everyone has resolved any issue there as neither the cruise or quickshifter will work with the clutch lever improperly installed.
My only change was to install HP rearsets. No changes were made to the geometry or the quickshifter linkage.
It also occurs to me that changing the clutch lever can create issues, but I imagine everyone has resolved any issue there as neither the cruise or quickshifter will work with the clutch lever improperly installed.
This may have changed the geometry of your shifter.
There are two switches on 2015. Do we know which each of them are for? Could one work even if the other one doesn't. It seem that way to me based on some of the pictures I saw.
Just got mine back from the shop. They said they did the shift link recall. I noticed now I'm missing up shifts a lot more often. This really sucks since I never really had issues with shifting before. only issue was when the shift link came off but I slid it back on with blue loctite & never had issues til they replaced it with this recall...
Well, I don't own the '15 with the downblippy-shifting thingy, but are you guys 110% sure that your clutches are adjusted to perfection with an infinitesimal gap? That made a difference from polluted water to vintage port wine on my setup with regards to upblipping.
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