OK folks, After a long weekend of sweating in my race trailer, I have finished the engine swap and last night around dinner time the bike started and ran fine.
Thus I can say conclusively that a 2014 motor can be successfully transplanted into a 2010 bike. Here are my notes:
- I used the throttle bodies and sensors on the throttle bodies from the 2010 bike. I also used the ECU and harness from the 2010.
- I left all the 20104 engine's sensors intact, with only one exception: the 2014 temp sensor that plugs into the thermostat housing had a small connector and the original 2010 motor had a fat connecter, similar to a fuel injector connector. I swapped the temp sensors but now it leaks, so I need to put some Teflon tape on it to seal it up.
- After starting it up with the configuration stated above, the GS911 interface reported no engine codes other than the expected exhaust servo missing due to removal of the stock exhaust/installation of a full Ti exhaust system. Therefore, the knock sensors, crank position sensor and camshaft position sensor appear to be unchanged form 2010 to 2014.
Other observations
- The factory throttle body clamps are horrible. On the advice of users on this board I ordered the screw clamps from McMaster-Carr, part number 5574K19, 10 clamps for $12.19 USD with delivery in 3 days. Definitely an improvement
- Getting the engine wedged into the rear lower and upper frame mounts is the most epic pain. I seriously wanted to line up BMW engineers and kick them repeatedly. Most of this install I did by myself in a race trailer without a cherry picker or anything overhead to suspend either the bike or engine from. The engine weighs 170 pounds. Balancing it, while forcing it into place, and with the other hand inserting the rear engine mount bolt, is near impossible. I got it done, but I saw red for about 3 hours. And I think that description does not adequately represent how much of a pain it was.
- The order that things go in matters. Don't put the oil cooler and radiator on and then realize you should have put the exhaust header on first. Dumb.
- My new EarthX ETX18F fits in the factory location like it was made exactly for it. There isn't a millimeter of slop anywhere. Key off voltage was 13.42v! That thing makes the engine turn over far faster than the old conventional battery and weighs probably just over 1 pound.
- There is a coolant drain petcock on the left side of the motor. If it isn't secured properly after draining it will pop off when the cooling system starts to pressurize, and will spew fluid all over your race trailer. Lesson learned. Check.
- There are two different K&N oil filter models for this bike, the KN-160 and KN-164. The KN-160 is taller and offers very little clearance between the header and the oil filter. The KN-164 offers more clearance and is a better fit.
Questions:
I am seriously considering the purchase of the RapidBike tuning setup, but it requires the installation of the factory o2 sensors. The o2 bungs in my Leo Vince exhaust are significantly larger than the BMW o2 sensors. Anyone know if there is an adapter that can be purchased or do I need to have a titanium welder weld on a new pair of bungs? (yuck)
So I don't have the fuel tank vent sensor...never was on the bike when I bought it. Anybody know what these two connections are for? I don't get any other errors and the bike runs without them. Also, the blue taped sensor is unusued; it is just like a temp sensor or fuel injector plug, but doesn't need to be plugged into anything for the bike to run right and there isn't anything for it to plug into.
there are a few connections that were not hooked up to anything with my old engine (unchanged with new one). I know that the fuel tank vent sensor was removed, but I don't know what else.