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2013 engine in 2010

12K views 40 replies 16 participants last post by  M-Coupe99 
#1 ·
Can anyone tell me if I would be able to bolt a 2013 engine in a 2010 with the 2010 frame and electronics?

What will I need to change? I am planning to run a Bazzaz to manage the fueling and I know that I will need to use the 2010 temp sensor to avoid cutting the harness.
 
#5 ·
yes, I am doing this right now. I have a 2014 engine I am installing in my 2010. I am using the original ECU, wiring harness, throttle bodies, airbox, coolant lines and oil cooler.

The OEM throttle body clamps are a pain. I ordered the replacement clamps from Mcmaster-Carr, page 268 of the catalog, SKU 5574K19. $12.19 USD for 10 of them.

There are 2 different oil filters from K&N: one is the KN-164 and the other is the KN-160. The 164 is shorter, for fitting under aftermarket headers. You can use the 160 with stock headers but it is a really tight fit.

I caused a slight fray in my clutch cable when removing it, so I need to order another one of those. I also need to order a replacement washer for the front sprocket shaft. The shop that put my 520 kit on did a piss poor job; the front sprocket wasn't tight at all and the washer is in mediocre shape (should be disposable).
 
#7 · (Edited)
OK folks, After a long weekend of sweating in my race trailer, I have finished the engine swap and last night around dinner time the bike started and ran fine.

Thus I can say conclusively that a 2014 motor can be successfully transplanted into a 2010 bike. Here are my notes:

- I used the throttle bodies and sensors on the throttle bodies from the 2010 bike. I also used the ECU and harness from the 2010.
- I left all the 20104 engine's sensors intact, with only one exception: the 2014 temp sensor that plugs into the thermostat housing had a small connector and the original 2010 motor had a fat connecter, similar to a fuel injector connector. I swapped the temp sensors but now it leaks, so I need to put some Teflon tape on it to seal it up.
- After starting it up with the configuration stated above, the GS911 interface reported no engine codes other than the expected exhaust servo missing due to removal of the stock exhaust/installation of a full Ti exhaust system. Therefore, the knock sensors, crank position sensor and camshaft position sensor appear to be unchanged form 2010 to 2014.

Other observations
- The factory throttle body clamps are horrible. On the advice of users on this board I ordered the screw clamps from McMaster-Carr, part number 5574K19, 10 clamps for $12.19 USD with delivery in 3 days. Definitely an improvement
- Getting the engine wedged into the rear lower and upper frame mounts is the most epic pain. I seriously wanted to line up BMW engineers and kick them repeatedly. Most of this install I did by myself in a race trailer without a cherry picker or anything overhead to suspend either the bike or engine from. The engine weighs 170 pounds. Balancing it, while forcing it into place, and with the other hand inserting the rear engine mount bolt, is near impossible. I got it done, but I saw red for about 3 hours. And I think that description does not adequately represent how much of a pain it was.
- The order that things go in matters. Don't put the oil cooler and radiator on and then realize you should have put the exhaust header on first. Dumb.
- My new EarthX ETX18F fits in the factory location like it was made exactly for it. There isn't a millimeter of slop anywhere. Key off voltage was 13.42v! That thing makes the engine turn over far faster than the old conventional battery and weighs probably just over 1 pound.
- There is a coolant drain petcock on the left side of the motor. If it isn't secured properly after draining it will pop off when the cooling system starts to pressurize, and will spew fluid all over your race trailer. Lesson learned. Check.
- There are two different K&N oil filter models for this bike, the KN-160 and KN-164. The KN-160 is taller and offers very little clearance between the header and the oil filter. The KN-164 offers more clearance and is a better fit.



Questions:
I am seriously considering the purchase of the RapidBike tuning setup, but it requires the installation of the factory o2 sensors. The o2 bungs in my Leo Vince exhaust are significantly larger than the BMW o2 sensors. Anyone know if there is an adapter that can be purchased or do I need to have a titanium welder weld on a new pair of bungs? (yuck)



So I don't have the fuel tank vent sensor...never was on the bike when I bought it. Anybody know what these two connections are for? I don't get any other errors and the bike runs without them. Also, the blue taped sensor is unusued; it is just like a temp sensor or fuel injector plug, but doesn't need to be plugged into anything for the bike to run right and there isn't anything for it to plug into.




there are a few connections that were not hooked up to anything with my old engine (unchanged with new one). I know that the fuel tank vent sensor was removed, but I don't know what else.
 
#8 ·
So we did the same conversion at the same time!!

It is a bit tricky fitting the engine without help. Lucky for me I have done it a few times, so it only took me 10 min to fit the engine mounting bolts.

You should be able to get the o2 sensor bung that fits both. I recall from my Suzuki I had an arrow exhaust on it and you could fit both narrow and wide band. they provide a fitting.

I have no idea what those plugs are for. mine is also taped up.

Glad you came right with yours.

I installed bazzaz with autotune on mine and made 139kw and 118 Nm on the wheel which I don't think is too bad.
 
#9 ·
Since I had to swap out the temp sensor in the thermostat housing, it was leaking when I first installed it. I reinstalled it using Teflon tape and a rubber washer, and now it doesn't leak.

I started the installation of my PC5, for the interim until I can figure out the o2 sensor setup and possibly purchase the RapidBike Race system.

I just registered for track time this Sunday, so we'll see how she does!
 
#10 ·
UPDATE: well, I rode the bike to work yesterday for the first time. Engine ran smooth though without a power commander I was wishing for a more precise tune.

On the way home from work, driving down the freeway the rear end suddenly got wiggly and I looked back...white cloud of smoke. I thought, "crap, one of those stupid BMW coolant hose clamps that doesn't have a screw for tension probably popped off. I pulled off, the engine died. I had to walk the remaining 3/4 mile home to get the truck and race trailer. When I went to pick it up, I took a closer look and found that it wasn't water, it was oil. Uh oh.

Took it home and removed the carbon belly pan. Drain plug was sitting in it. After the new engine arrived (shipped without oil in it), I put a new K&N filter and new oil in it but didn't touch the drain plug because it was already secured...so I thought. The thing is, I ordered a Moto-D drain plug that you can safety wire, but tracking said it is going to arrive today--one day too late. After putting the drain plug back in, filling it with new oil and attempting to start, it is seized.

Yup. 2 motors in 2 months. This one at least I know why, but it doesn't soften the blow.

Now I have 2 motors to part out. I also have Ohlins 30mm cartridges and a JRI shock from the Gooch, new Moto-D dual temp tire warmers, a new Yamaha 2800w generator, a new truck to pull the new race trailer...all for naught. The season in Washington state will be over before I can get a third motor installed. Not decided if I will sell the forks/shock or any of the other parts to fund the purchase of another motor.
 
#11 ·
Man, I'm really sorry to hear that. Perfect example of Murphy's law at it's best. Worse part is missing the end of the season as well. Hopefully you may stumble upon better luck and you can find another motor cheaply...
 
#12 ·
Sorry to hear, this totally sucks.

How do you know for sure the 2nd motor is bad? Did you buy it new?
 
#13 ·
it was a used low-mileage motor, and arrived immaculate. It ran smooth, for the single short commute that I tested it on. I have no reason to suspect that the seller sold me a bad motor; I suspect that I installed a new oil filter and oil, but that I forgot to verify that the oil drain plug was properly torqued since I never touched it. I properly torque things that I touch, but I can't remember touching the drain plug.
 
#16 ·
If you re-read his post, he says he found the drain plug sitting in the belly pan. In other words, it fell out while he was riding. Bad enough he is going through all this without having to answer questions from people that don't even take the time to read what he has written. Just my thoughts.
 
#20 ·
glad someone else is doing this. i let a "buddy" ride my bike and end result is im replacing the motor. this thread is very helpful and i just placed an order for the band clamps also. had a friend help with taking it off frame. hopefully i can get someone over to help with putting it back in.
 
#21 ·
@Seraphim38 PM me your PayPal info. I don't have much, but I would like to donate some money towards another motor.

Also, make a list of what you need. I may have some spare parts.

This is most likely the first and last time I do this. I'm doing it because you supported other members with your purchases. Further, someone may get the idea to come up with a bogus story to scam us.
 
#22 ·
Count me in, I'll donate to SRO and he can send it to your PayPal on my behalf. Really hard luck story, let's get you back on the road!
 
#23 ·
I understand that the drain plug is probably what caused the 2nd engine to seize.
But Just my 2cents,
REPLACE the oil cooler when you install another engine. As the current oil cooler has a pretty good chance of having bearing materiel stuck in it, and when installing another engine in the bike and using the old oil cooler you have a very high chance of those pieces of bearing to be released when new new engine is running, causing another engine to seize.
I wouldn't chance it.


Good luck
 
#31 ·
Hello everyone,

For those who have followed the saga, I had 2 engines seize inside of 2 months. I did acquire a 3rd engine from a crashed S1000RR, and upon arrival it looked far worse on the outside than my prior two engines. Anyway, I had to set off on overseas business travel and the installation was interrupted. I got back to the USA a week ago and got the new engine installed and fired it up last night. It runs!

I still have a few things that need to be done, but there is a chance I might be able to make the last track day of the year on October 12th. I still need to:

install clutch cable
install motion pro quick turn throttle
remove and replace 520 front sprocket
install new Ohlins steering damper
reinstall bodywork and safety wire stuff
check PC5 wiring
clean all the oil off the rear tire and back of the bike, after my last engine puked all over

(highly unlikely that this will happen prior to the next track day)
install Ohlins 30mm front fork cartridges
have titanium welding shop cut down the mid pipe on my Leo Vince full titanium system and weld on an Arrow GP2 shorty Ti cannister
 
#33 ·
Did it! Got the engine installation finished Saturday morning and took it for a ride. The replacement motor was a tad rougher for the first 10 minutes of riding but then it smoothed out. I ran it with a full system, and power commander disengaged. It needs a tune, bad. I want the RapidBike system, but I need to adapt the o2 sensor plugs on my Leo Vince exhaust system because the o2 sensors I have are skinny and the exhaust bungs are fat. (Maybe 18mm to 12mm adapter, or ?)

Now that I am on my 3rd engine, I can swap these engines in and out reasonably fast. There are a lot of tribal knowledge tricks you learn.

When the engine was out I installed the Samco radiator hose kit, Moto-D drain plug with safety wire, GB racing case cover, Ohlins steering damper (MAN what a difference this makes!), 2012 seat, new 2014 coils and NGK plugs.

The ride to work this morning was blissful. I even put it on the warmers prior to riding out and rode it in Sport mode. Man, the throttle response is so much slower than it is in Race mode, but I wanted the traction control to be more active, just in case.

Next to install as they are already in my race trailer waiting to be mounted:
Ohlins 30mm front fork cartridges
Safety wire Titanium caliper bolts for the front calipers
Motion Pro quick turn throttle (got stumped on how to remove the OEM throttle ?)
Convert Leo Vince full Ti system to a shorty, with an Arrow GP2 Ti can

Next to buy:
RapidBike piggyback fuel injection controller
Factory Pro shift star & spring



 
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