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Old 05-08-2012, 03:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How to make your engine run cooler

See post below -

Since BMW elected to give us a crappy tuneup below 6000rpm (JUST fuel doesn't fix the problem !)
About a days worth work and about 100 bucks worth of stuff.
Takes some money and some work, but it works.

Mike

Last edited by Mike-; 05-09-2012 at 11:40 AM.
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I hear if you take the cat off that the temp drops precipitously.
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Question run cooler question

I suppose if you wired in a switch to control the radiator fans, you could lower the temp by running them longer, or perhaps reprogram to come on at a lower tempature. Do we have access to do that?
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I just presumed bmw spent millions of £'s/$'s designing it to run at the temp it does............
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Old 05-08-2012, 05:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bananaman View Post
I just presumed bmw spent millions of £'s/$'s designing it to run at the temp it does............
this^
not worth wasting $100 and a days work.
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Simply remove the non-essential plastic fuel and noise emission do-dads and covers between the radiator, airbox, and engine. That increases airflow over the engine's bare metal. I haven't done it to this bike, but it works for others.
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Old 05-09-2012, 11:06 AM   #7 (permalink)
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mc hammer -

I guess simillar to your "handle" (name) here...you're a crack-up..

Mike
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Old 05-09-2012, 11:26 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Ok...despite the BMW (or bike) experts here (do I make friends or what..?), the fuel/timing tuneup in these bikes ECM's is terrible.
Otherwise...MOST of you whould'nt have Bazzaz, Dynojet boxes attacted...right...?

Anyway, to try to keep the engine temp somewhat stable and below 215 degrees F. till timing adjustment is made available, here's what I did.

1. I used the DEI exh. wrap (#010127) to wrap the headers to the cat. box (two layers).
This not only helps keep the water coolant cooler, it keeps some of the heat out of the radiator, the oil pan and cooler (oil/water) lines..!

2. I wrapped the coolant hoses with the same. (Notice how close the HOT header tube is to the coolant hose!).

3. I wrapped the oil cooler hoses...same reason as above.

4. I wrapped the coolant and oil lines with adhesive backed, Thermo-Tec heat barrier to further "reflect" header heat.

5. I disconnected the fan power lines from the computer and installed a direct from the battery, on-off switch and to the fan.
Thanks to one of the guys on this board for the idea.

Now...as an expert noted above...if this isn't worth a 15+ degree reduction (as I saw yesterday at a coupla stop lights)...rod bolt problems are the least of your concerns..!

Yesterday, normally, the coolant temperature would have been in the 215/218 degr. F range at the stop lights.
197 degr. F was as high as it got (85 degr. day)...

Note that neither the fan nore the wrap alone will do the trick, both must be used.
I normally turn the fan on between 180/185 degr. F.

Take it or leave it, I don't care. To me...it was well worth the time effort and the few bucks it took to buy the parts.
Engines (the gaskets and materials the engine is made of) do not like the temp. spikes that these things go thru between moving and sitting still at signals.

Mike

P.s. - and...rather than "spend money" (as cried about above !) and add weight (sheet metal cover)....to clean up and sorta hide the giant cat. converter, while the system was off the bike, I just used car header paint to paint the cat. box and heat shield flat black.
The whole 8 dollar can of paint went a long way toward cleaning up the look of my bike (black version).

And yea...removing the cat. is a good consideration...BUT...the excessive heat is NOT the cat's. fault by itself.
The lack of ignition timing is 95% of the reason for the hot coolant temps. and the sluggish low speed power.
I'm more interested in somehow getting proper timing maps installed, then the fuel.
THEN...I can free up some power and remove some weight.

Last edited by Triple Threat; 05-09-2012 at 11:13 PM.
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Old 05-09-2012, 12:04 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike- View Post
....P.s. - and...rather than "spend money" (as cried about above !) and add weight (sheet metal cover)....to clean up and sorta hide the giant cat. converter, while the system was off the bike, I just used car header paint to paint the cat. box and heat shield flat black.
The whole 8 dollar can of paint went a long way toward cleaning up the look of my bike (black version).
Any problems with the paint flaking off? Have thought about that myself too - as the underslung box is indeed an eyesore on the black one (as mine is).

Last edited by Triple Threat; 05-09-2012 at 11:15 PM.
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:46 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Ive had a lot of success with my Speed Triple replacing the thick rubber coolant lines "1 being almost 20" long 1' in diameter" with custom bent copper pipes! Copper dissipates heat very effectively & lowered temps by a solid 10 Degrees. Could have been closer to 12 but had no way to tell as that temp gauge ran in 2 d increments.
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