Gerbings Back Ordered?!

**nightdevil** · 12-05-2011, 06:19 PM

Anyone have trouble getting gerbings gear? I ordered mine or reserved mine at Bob's in September and its still back ordered. I check their main site and it continues to be pushed back!
I'm thinking about going with warm n safe... thoughts?

**Karlb** · 12-05-2011, 06:50 PM

want gerbings but dont want to pay retail check here to see if they have what you want I piicked up some great deals here but sizes are limited and stuff changes often (it is gerbings owned outlet site)

Heated Clothing Outlet - Huge Discounts on Heated Clothing!

**awelch85** · 12-05-2011, 07:30 PM

I really need to buy a battery, but I have the same issue. I sent them a message earlier about it, no response yet.

**HOG SLYR** · 12-05-2011, 09:54 PM

Nothing out there better than the Gerbing. My wife and I have Powerlet liners now but hopefully she will switch to Gerbing next week at the Long Beach, CA show.

ronyd · 12-06-2011, 11:13 AM

FYI, consider buying direct from Gerbing. They carry full warranty. Buying indirect usually do not. May want to check into that.

**nightdevil** · 12-06-2011, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ronyd

FYI, consider buying direct from Gerbing. They carry full warranty. Buying indirect usually do not. May want to check into that.

No one has them in stock unless your an xxs!

Mack · 12-06-2011, 11:54 AM

Check the alternative, Warm and Safe. They have a lower wattage clothing models too that were made to keep from burning out the stators on lower output bikes our the sportbikes. I bought one of their lower-wattage jackets and electric gloves and it worked well for my snow riding adventure although I crank it full too and it feels warm and never blazing hot like a higher wattage suit does,

I have a lot of the Gerbings stuff too, although the stitches by some Velcro in their Cascade Extreme 4 Season Heated Suit (It ain't 4 seasons. It's way too hot and sweltering in the summer or above 85 degrees!) pulled loose and it had to go back and get fixed which took about 2-3 months to do. They just did a quick & dirty sew-through all the fabric layers and insulation rather than attach it to the outer lining the way it was first made. I could have done that by myself. Fixing it the way it was originally made was beyond their skill set. I suspect it was made in China and has very poor stitching quality overall.

Mack

dattaway · 12-06-2011, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mack

They have a lower wattage clothing models too that were made to keep from burning out the stators on lower output bikes our the sportbikes.

Interestingly, higher wattage loads on our bikes create less of a load on our rectifier/regulator. Sportbikes use shunt type regulation. Unlike an alternator that uses field excitation to regulate, the excess voltage of a sportbike stator not being used is shorted back to the stator. The load on the stator is the same if you use 50 watts or 300 watts. The load on the regulator/rectifier is less if you use more wattage.

Mack · 12-06-2011, 02:25 PM

The R6 guys had burned stators from doing their HID high-wattage lighting stuff. Took out some harnesses too.

My old H-D stator couldn't handle the electric heated gear at all at stop signs as the headlight would flicker (transistorized regulator too) and sometimes even get the battery warning light to come on as well unless I kept it rev'd up high (for a H-D 3.5K is high!). Their aftermarket stator (J&M?) built some better insulated stators for those who shorted their OEM ones out. Honda had some stators that burned where the wiring exited the engine casing via some connector from people putting too many accessories on them. It's why the big guys like Gold Wing, BMW K-series (although some who made their HID aftermarket 55 watts had to back down to 35 watts, ahem!), the Boxer Boys with their high-output external alternators (cop bikes) which put out so much wattage to run all the guy's toys). The S, being a race bike and to keep the charging system from crippling the HP output, kept the stator output amperage low - that or add a higher-out one which would hinder the HP specs.

If you are cold enough to need an electric chair, your BMW S stator ain't going to do it. The reg. may say "Okay," but the stator itself is going to generate some serious heat and it could conceivably short to ground, or internally in the windings if the magnetic wire insulation melts down. The charging harness could come into play as well as BMW really loves small gauge wiring since their involvement with the Can-Bus stuff. Even their K-44 series regulated their stock aux. power sockets to something like 5 amps max. which created havoc with electric clothing stuff (it never would get really "hot" as it would shut down that clothing circuit -- and damhik either!) and most had to go withe heavier wring to the battery with a Powerlet socket (ahem! again).

Warm and Safe designed their 65 watt jackets to overcome the BMW Can-Bus shutdown on the K bikes without resorting to the Powerlet aux. setup. Their standard jacket is around 90 watts, and 90 watts will bring down their Can-Bus (ahem! x3). I think my Gerbing's Cascades Extreme with the electric jacket, pants, socks, gloves is almost 30 amps and the H-D was around 38 amps max. on the output at a high RPM. Wasn't very promising.

Mack

dattaway · 12-06-2011, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mack

The R6 guys had burned stators from doing their HID high-wattage lighting stuff. Took out some harnesses too.

My old H-D stator couldn't handle the electric heated gear at all at stop signs as the headlight would flicker (transistorized regulator too) and sometimes even get the battery warning light to come on as well unless I kept it rev'd up high (for a H-D 3.5K is high!). Their aftermarket stator (J&M?) built some better insulated stators for those who shorted their OEM ones out. Honda had some stators that burned where the wiring exited the engine casing via some connector from people putting too many accessories on them. It's why the big guys like Gold Wing, BMW K-series (although some who made their HID aftermarket 55 watts had to back down to 35 watts, ahem!), the Boxer Boys with their high-output external alternators (cop bikes) which put out so much wattage to run all the guy's toys). The S, being a race bike and to keep the charging system from crippling the HP output, kept the stator output amperage low - that or add a higher-out one which would hinder the HP specs.

If you are cold enough to need an electric chair, your BMW S stator ain't going to do it. The reg. may say "Okay," but the stator itself is going to generate some serious heat and it could conceivably short to ground, or internally in the windings if the magnetic wire insulation melts down. The charging harness could come into play as well as BMW really loves small gauge wiring since their involvement with the Can-Bus stuff. Even their K-44 series regulated their stock aux. power sockets to something like 5 amps max. which created havoc with electric clothing stuff (it never would get really "hot" as it would shut down that clothing circuit -- and damhik either!) and most had to go withe heavier wring to the battery with a Powerlet socket (ahem! again).

Warm and Safe designed their 65 watt jackets to overcome the BMW Can-Bus shutdown on the K bikes without resorting to the Powerlet aux. setup. Their standard jacket is around 90 watts, and 90 watts will bring down their Can-Bus (ahem! x3). I think my Gerbing's Cascades Extreme with the electric jacket, pants, socks, gloves is almost 30 amps and the H-D was around 38 amps max. on the output at a high RPM. Wasn't very promising.

Mack

Those are nice stories, but put an amp clamp on the stator output when changing the current load through the rpm range. You shouldn't see a change.