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[HardRacing]

Now remove the Other Stock Fork Leg and do the same thing.
Before you crank down the 2nd Fork Leg, make sure the forks are EXACTLY the same height. You can do this by placing the axle in the fork bottoms and slide it all the way over. There should be No resistance as you slide it back and forth. This will confirm if your forks are square.
Once this is done, you can tighten the other Triple Tree Pinch Bolts, and Clip-on Pinch Bolt.


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We put loctite blue on the Axle pinch bolts, simply because we are anal, and the bolts are upside down.

You should already have the Left Side Pinch bolts tight, when you installed the “Quick Install” Threaded Axle Capture/Sleeve”
If not, tighten it now.

Then slowly put your wheel in and slide your axle through and tighten your axle 50 N/mm.
Now tighten your right side pinch bolts.

Take your calipers and re-install them on your rotors, and tighten down your caliper bolts 38 N/mm.


Take your ABS/TC Sensor and re-install it on the new forks using stock bolt. (recommend loctite blue)



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If you followed our tip earlier, your pads should be spread and your wheel should easily spin freely, with almost no resistance.

To Properly seat your Front Pads, Spin your front wheel has fast as you can (FORWARD) while on your race stand, and Grab HARD your Front brake Lever.
This Motion will Seat your pads in the best “Centered” alignment on your discs, for least amount of drag on your rotors.
You can do it more then once, if you like. But, it usually only takes one time.

You do NOT have to do this procedure. But after 1000 + wheel changes over the past 20 years of racing…….. This works best.
At least it does for us. ;-)

Next put the bolt back in that holds your Front Brake Line T-Juntion, and re-install the plastic cover.


Now install your front fender back on.

That’s it. Your all done. See that wasn’t so bad.

BEFORE you lower your bike To the ground take a minute and measure your sag.
Pick a point on your fork leg and take a measurement. We use the bottom lip of the fork dust seal To the Top edge of the fork bottom. Ours came out to 127mm or 5”
Then lower your bike down to the ground. And Bounce up and down on the forks.
Then have someone hold your bike upright, while you are sitting on the bike, feet off the ground.
Take that measurement AGAIN. Ours was 3.375” or 85mm
The Difference between the Two measurements is how far your forks travel from Fully UNLOADED, to LOADED with RIDER on the bike. Also called SAG. It should be about 40-42mm give or take.
This will be a good starting point to know your springs are set for your rider weight.

Now, go out and ride, and enjoy your new forks.

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