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[HardRacing]

Removing, and Installing Forks.

This writeup kinda covers a few different things.
Removing and re-installing your front wheel (most of us know this)
Removing and re-installing Forks (if you want to work on them, change fork seals...do any valving, or whatever)
And of course, Installing Ohlins Forks if you decide to upgrade. (often intimidating to some, but actually very easy)

Whatever you take from it, we hope it helps.


So after finally filling all our Customer back orders, we were able to get a set of Ohlins Forks for ourselves ( Customers always come first, even before our project bike)

We get a lot of calls from customers asking.. “Do I need to bring my bike to local dealer, if I want to get Ohlins Forks”

For sure…. If you have a Front and Rear Set of Race Stands….. and a decent tool kit…… then NO. You don’t.
You can easily do it yourself.

Here’s how.

First, put your bike on REAR Race Stand.



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Since your removing your forks, you will need the Front Stand that goes into your Triple Tree Hole.
We prefer the VORTEX. It’s Rock Solid, easy to use, has Built in Axle Holders, and Easy disassembly for Convenient Travel and storage. Once you use a stand that has REMOVABLE Handles, and Axle Holders, you’ll wonder how you managed without them.
So nice, and so convenient.

The only trick on the S1000RR, Is you have to remove 3 small bolts. (2) that hold the plastic cover on. And one that holds your Brake Line T-Junction. This takes about 1 min.
Then you have clear access to the Triple Tree Hole.



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Once you have that done, you can raise the front of your bike, so the forks/wheel are dangling there.

Now, loosen and remove your Caliper Bolts, once they are removed, slide your calipers back off the disc.
(Tip: Before you completely slide them off the discs, Slowly and gingerly, twist the calipers on the disc from side to side. (NOT Push and Pull). You want to use the Disc to leverage the pads apart. Just a little bit is all it takes. This will push your pads/pistons back into the caliper a little and make install a LOT easier. Plus, it makes Pad alignment MORE accurate. We will explain that a little later. This will give you the same result as stuffing a screw driver in there and prying the pads apart. Except you don’t have the worry about gouging a chunk of your pad out.



Now your calipers are dangling there. You can get a piece of string to hang them off your clip-ons out of the way, or just be slow and careful when you remove your wheel as not to scratch it.

Next remove your ABS/TC Pickup… located on your Left Fork Leg. One small Bolt. Slide the Sensor away from your forks. It can just dangle there for now.


So, next you loosen your Right Side Fork Axle Pinch bolts. (RIGHT SIDE… NOT left)
Then, remove your Axle with 24mm allen socket. What.. you don’t have one of those sitting in your tool box? ;-)
A little trick we learned, is find a 24mm nut, and put that halfway into the axle, and a 24mm socket onto the other half. All good.
We tried it, and it works.

Remove your axle and put it in your Race Stands Axle Holder. If your stand doesn’t have an Axle holder, put it somewhere out of the way, so you don’t get grease all over the place, and sand & crud all over your axle.

Slowly lower your wheel down, and set it aside out of the way.

Now you have officially removed your front wheel.
Quick and easy and your about ¼ of the way there.

Next remove your front fender (2 little screws on each side). Set your fender OUT of the WAY. You don’t want to scratch it up.


Now if your swapping out your forks, here are the Next Steps.
On the inside of your Left Fork leg, there is a small plate that holds your ABC/TC Wire. Remove that plate from the Fork to Free your wire.
Once the wire is free, put the plate back so it stays with your stock forks.


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Now loosen the LEFT Fork Leg pinch bolts, and remove the “Quick Install” Threaded Axle Capture/Sleeve”
Then take that sleeve and install it on the Ohlins LEFT Fork leg..

Now, take the Ohlins Fender brackets, and put some Locktite blue on the bolts, and mount the fender brackets.
That’s the ENTIRE “Assembly required” for the forks. They are 100% OEM Fit.






To be Continued........

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