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Oil Change Information/Torque Specs/etc.

173K views 163 replies 92 participants last post by  knucklesk67 
#1 · (Edited)
Nice to have all the following info in one place... let me know if I need to add/modify etc. The following is based on my experience; the torque ratings were provided from the BMW Service Manual Software ;):

  • Change oil with the bike warmed up - oil drains much better.
  • Book says it should take 3.9L of oil w/filter change... closer to 3.5L or even a hair less was my experience. Remember you should be checking the level of oil AFTER the bike has been run and at normal operating temperature (see pg 105 of owner's manual). You should NOT be checking the level with a cold bike (you may think you have enough oil in the bike when it's actually low - with a cold bike)!
  • Oil Filters - Initially BMW was selling the 779 (11427 721 779) (same filter for K1200 or K1300?) filter for the S1000RR even though it came from the factory with a 541 (11427 673 541).
  • BMW straightened that out and is now selling the 541 for the S1000RR
  • Difference between the two Filters : 779 is about 3/8" longer (slightly more capacity) AND the end of the 779 oil filter fits a normal "B" type filter socket for removing and installing. This is good because the 541 has an end on it that appears to take a special filter socket (pic shown below - Part# 83300 401 554). If you don't care about properly torquing the filter to 11Nm, no biggie. Historically I haven't worried about it, but if I can - why not do it (torque it properly). Personally, I'm using the 779's since they have a friendlier filter end that fits the B-type filter socket, they have more capacity, and it's what was sold to me initially from the BMW dealer.
  • Much easier to do the oil change with the left lower fairing removed - pretty easy removal (2 bolts on the front near the radiator, 5 bolts on the side, 2 bolts on the underside)
  • Put a little aluminum foil under the filter to funnel the oil away from the headers and O2 sensors while removing the existing filter - works great, no mess.
  • Replace crush washer each time the oil plug is removed (Part # 07119 963 252).
  • Oil Filter Torque - 11Nm
  • Oil Pan Plug Torque - 28Nm
 
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#3 · (Edited)
I bought CASTROL OIL POWER RS R4 5W40, one of the few I could find that has the JASO MA2 rating... which BMW recommends. JASO MA2 rating is a new rating that supercedes the JASO MA rating... now they have an MA1 and MA2... Couldn't ever figure out what the difference was all about or if it is another "snake oil" gimmick...

Got it here --> https://www.powersportsuperstore.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TR43-0165
 
#5 ·
If you buy the GS-911 you can do it yourself (reset the oil change interval mileage and date)... 5 or 6 more oil changes ($50ea for computer reset) and you've paid for the GS-911 ;)
 
#8 ·
D,
Do you have a part # for the special tool (filter socket) that may be required for the 541 filter?
Let me look into it... should have an answer for ya in a bit...

PS: Thanks for posting the OP. Very helpful thread.
No sweat... I find myself quickly referencing back to the OP myself to get the torque numbers.
 
#12 ·
#17 ·
Whoa! Wait a minute! Are you telling me I can’t just change the oil on this bike? That I have to ride all the way to the dealer and pay them some ridiculous $ to re-set the computer? Or buy some $300 gizmo to take care of it myself? And that I need a f$%^&*ing $100 wrench to change the filter?
 
#18 ·
Sounds about right, except the wrench part where I use a cheap strap wrench from Harbor Freight. Tighten by hand and then add another 1/8 turn with the strap.

The manual seems to suggest some time interval. Owner's book quote, pg. 162: "BMW Service is carried out once a year."

On page 162, it also mentions, "The service display in the multi-function display reminds you of the next service date approx. one month or 600 miles (1000 km) before the entered values" (I assume those values are in the ECU or the dealer has control via their software?). I doubt if anyone has hit that one-year date yet, but no doubt someone is going to chime in and ask: "How do I turn it off?"

GS-911 maybe? If not, Mr. Dealer lifts your wallet - or just put black electrical tape over it and ignore it. Maybe just buy the oil and filter from him at list price and ask "If he will reset the light for free once you get done?" (ha!).

I'm sort of surprised they stretch it out to a year now. Maybe they got hammered about high service costs so much they've stretched it out. My car is every 6,000 miles with synthetic so maybe they figured very few will run the bike that distance in a year to break-down the oil?


Mack
 
#19 ·
the oil filter only goes on as tight as you can manage by hand, theres no need for a special wrench to get it off, just use a pair of open jaw pliers, or failing that skewer it with a screwdriver.



I've also re-used crush washers with no probs for about 10 oil changes (every 5k km on the VFR)... but they are so cheap, I just keep forgetting to get them.
 
#21 ·
Remember you should be checking the level of oil AFTER the bike has been run and at normal operating temperature (see pg 105 of owner's manual). You should NOT be checking the level with a cold bike (you may think you have enough oil in the bike when it's actually low - with a cold bike)!
Are you sure this is correct? Surely if you fill to the correct level while the bike is cold when it gets hot and the oil expands then you will have too much oil?
 
#22 ·
Yes... With the bike hot, the oil level should be sitting in the upper part of the window/glass. Once the bike gets cold it will be towards the bottom part of the window... maybe about 1/2 way up. Once you know where it ends up cold, you can continue ensuring it is at that level... but the first time you check to ensure the proper amount of oil is in your bike, you should do it while the bike is warm/hot...

We may be saying the same thing... I'm saying check the oil level hot as opposed to cold. If you fill the oil to the top of the glass while the bike is cold then when you warm it up, it (the oil) will be above the site glass and hence be slightly too full.
 
#23 ·
Couple of questions as I have never changed the oil on this bike?

1. Can you get the oil filter out without removing any of the fairing?

2. With the Tecbike Cat cover, is the oil drain plug accessable or do you have to remove the Cat cover to get at it?

Vic
 
#24 · (Edited)
Not sure on #1... due to simplicity of taking the lower left fairing off and MUCH less mess, I'd definitely recommend you remove the lower left fairing.

#2... You won't need to do anything with the Tecbike cover unless you need to remove it to remove your lower fairing?!
 
#26 ·
I tried to change the oil + filter today. Ended in frustration as the filter just won't come off, I don't understand how much torque they've used when installing it. I'm assuming it's supposed to come undone by rotating counter clockwise standing at the front? Any tips on how to get rid of the stubborn little bastard?
 
#27 ·
BMW makes an oil filter cap/socket to take it off. I ended up going w/the "other" filter (mentioned in the first post) and that takes a filter cap/socket that you can pick up at any/most Automotive Parts Stores. For the existing filter, if you don't have the right cap/socket, you can use a universal strap filter wrench, or some filter pliars (they have teeth that grab the filter), and they lock down kinda like channel locks do. As a last result (but will work usually), you could do the old screwdriver trick (but it's messy)... hammer a screw driver through the outer part of the filter (horizontally) and use the handle as your own way to twist the filter off... likely have to hammer it in a couple different times to get the thing loose.

And yes, the filter will come of by turning counterclockwise to spin it off.
 
#31 ·
Once my warranty runs out, I'll probably switch to that or similar... switch oil too... but until then, I'll likely just keep going w/BMW's filters and their oil recommendation.
 
#33 ·
Does anyone have any experience with Royal Purple or AMS Oil in their S1000RR?

Should I just stick with the recommended JASO MA2 oils? Is it the Castrol Power 1 5W-40 that is recommended by BMW? Will the RS work fine too?

What about weight? Being in GA, should I run with 5W-40 or 10W-40?

And finally... What about warranty? Anyone concerned that deviating from the "recommended" oil will ultimately void any warranty?
 
#38 ·
All I can get here from the dealer is Castrol R1 Racing, 10W-50, but it's the exact oil listed on their computer as the BMW recommended oil. Is BMW making different oil recommendations for different regions (I'm in Korea, freezing cold in the winter, humid hot in the summer).

I bought a stash of K&N filters so all I have to do is get the stock filter off once, then never deal with that special wrench nonsense ever again. I'll pick up a supply of crush washers from the dealer.

FWIW, my dealer reset my computer for free; I just asked them to do it and they did :)
 
#39 ·
All I can get here from the dealer is Castrol R1 Racing, 10W-50, but it's the exact oil listed on their computer as the BMW recommended oil. Is BMW making different oil recommendations for different regions (I'm in Korea, freezing cold in the winter, humid hot in the summer).
They don't explicitly list different temp ranges for the two recommended oil viscosities (5W-40 and 10W-40), but it stands to reason that the first would be better suited to colder temps.

I've never seen anything recommending 10W-50, although I'm sure it would work fine.

- Mark
 
#41 ·
All over the map. The super paranoid do it at every 1.5K or so. The slightly paranoid do it every 3K. The "BMW knows their bike best, by the book" types do it as spec'ed: 6K or one-year.

3K or 1-yr for me. Seems about the right tradeoff between expense and engine wear to me.

- Mark
 
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